About Me

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Cosplay and Maid Cafes

It's December and far too late to be updating.  I figured I should post before the to-write list expands!

Recently, we've taken many trips (of all kinds: day trips, work trips, two day trips) and seen a lot of beautiful fall leaves and crazy outfits.  In November we had the opportunity to travel to Gero (with another teacher and good friend of ours) for a kid's Christmas event.  Though a month early, Stephen was the skinniest Santa in history.  The kids loved him!  Afterwards, we went to one of Gero's many renowned hot springs to cleanse ourselves of the hyper holiday spirit and germy five to eleven year olds.  We purchased a wooden pass, also a beautiful souvenir, good for three visits to the area's famous onsen.  It was only 1200 yen, which is surprising as the springs include spa-like amenities.

Last weekend, to my supreme delight, Stephen surprised me with a three-year anniversary trip to Yokohama, Tokyo, and Tokyo Disneysea.  We woke up at five-thirty on Sunday morning to catch the Shinkansen and were soon walking down the promenade of Yamashita Park.  The train took less than two hours, which is amazing as the bus ride takes about seven.  The view of Mt. Fuji was spectacular!  In Yokohama we visited the famous China Town and ate delicious and insanely popular oil-filled dumplings.  We also bought Pu-erh and Jasmine tea and drank mango tapioca smoothies.







From Yokohama we caught the subway for an afternoon in Tokyo, starting in Shibuya.  The four-legged pedestrian crossing outside of Shibuya station is the busiest in the world, though it doesn't seem like it when you're standing in the center.  Everything is efficient and orderly (minus the two foreigners taking photos and blocking traffic).  Outside the station we saw another interesting sight: a protest of the government's intentional starvation of contaminated cows in Fukushima.  The protesters held large signs broadcasting photos of the maltreatment and were yelling over loud speakers.


In Harajuku we experienced the essence of Japan's wild subculture and eccentric fashion.  This is where "cosplay"(short for costume play) originated and continues to scream in all directions since teenagers flock there to buy more of it. After wandering the narrow streets lined with boutiques and restaurants, we stood in line to try Japanese udon noodles with an Italian twist.  The bizarre pairing, pesto and udon, encapsulated the district's love for the trendy, modern and distinct.  It was actually delicious!



Next we headed to Akihabara, the nation's gadget capital.  It's a hot spot for "otaku" (the well known techie, or geek, subculture).  Stephen was excited when he found a new videogame for a bargain and I was excited to see Sega and Mortal Combat everywhere.  Here we also had our first Maid Cafe experience.  These cafes, throughout Japan, consist of women dressed in maid outfits who dote and serve you beer or cute desserts.  You can even pay an obscene amount to have your photo taken with your server (this was very popular ).  It was a little mind-boggling to see the lone Japanese men sitting, drinking, and staring, but there were also couples on dates.  Our waitress was really sweet - when we were ready to order we had to call her name (followed by "chan," which is endearing) and meow like cats.  No kidding.  And our parfait was shaped like a bear with Oreo ears!


Tokyo Disneysea was filled with elaborate fountain and lights shows (complete with jet skis and fireballs), miming characters including a shockingly tall Jifar, and Japanese people sporting Mickey Mouse ears.  We finally understood why even our lower level students use and understand "imagine" and "imagination" so effortlessly.  It's some of the only English used in the shows. We spent a lot of time in Aladin town and, appropriately, ate curry, naan, and curry spiced popcorn.  It was my first Disney-Anything experience and I liked how each district was distinctly themed, including the food.  In Japan, as Mom read in an article and told me, more adults than children go to Disneyland and Disneysea.  This is not surprising since everyone seems to be obsessed with Mickey.  Disneysea is also geared towards couples with its alcohol service and romantic restaurants.  Little Italy was especially "quaint," though we decided to skip the long line to ride gondolas (once you've done the real thing Disneysea doesn't measure up).





















In other news, this upcoming week is filled with Christmas parties and kid's craft lessons.  We started to make a chocolate house but accidently ate chocolate vital to the procedure.  The weather has finally turned (fall stayed really late this year), mandating scarves and jackets.  We're actually learning Japanese.  I'll have more updates after the winter vacation!  Stay warm everyone!

Claire

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Happy October!

Today the smells of simmering nashi (Japanese pear) and butternut squash suffused our apartment.  We drank hot green tea for the first time in months (as October brought a blissful rush of cool air) and lit pumpkin-shaped candles.  I made butternut squash stew and hummus. I feel the need to be poetic- can you tell? Lately I’ve been dreaming of dysmorphic squash, sitting on front decks like colorful, twisted mutants, and pumpkin seeds spawned from grinning orange gourds. Today welcomed long-sleeves and rich and earthly aromas.  I love fall and its prickling wind, watching red leaves turning on their bellies.

Fall also brought visitors! Last week we visited Nara, Osaka and Kyoto with Stephen's dad and brother, Bill and Travis.  Together we were harassed by brash, uncomfortably domesticated deer (that enjoyed eating maps), sang karaoke, burned our mouths on takoyaki, and enjoyed raw wagyu beef and tongue.  We stayed at the Apple House in Kyoto, a traditional Japanese home with a small tatami room, kitchen, a second-story bedroom with four futons, and apple paraphernalia everywhere. Together, over the course of the trip, we managed to eat soba, tempura, udon (thick noodles), oden (a convenient-store speciality), conveyer-belt sushi, raw meat of all kinds, ramen, takoyaki (Osaka's fried octopus balls), matcha (finely-milled green tea) tea and ice-cream, donburi (rice bowl topped with beef and egg), okonomiyaki (Osaka's "pancake"made with cabbage, flour, and egg), nikuman (meat-filled dumplings), motchi (Kyoto's sweet specialty), nabe (meat/vegetable hot-pot), and yakitori (fried chicken). As Travis and Stephen were ready for action, that's only a small sample of the menu. It was a great trip with the Morrissey monkey men and watching them in their natural environment was very interesting for an outside observer.  You can check out the photos on Facebook!

Our next major adventure will be to Hokkaido, Japan’s northern most island, for winter vacation.  We’re going skiing for four days, staying at a lodge, and then heading to Sapporo for New Years. Apparently Hokkaido has some of the top powder in the world- as a first time skier, the softer the snow, the better!

Today we've been invited to lunch by one of Stephen's students (he gets us a lot of home invites) in Arimatsu.  She kindly offered to cook us a traditional Japanese meal at her house.  I can't wait! 

Stay wary of hungry deer,
Claire

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Sawadee Ka!

-pronounced so-wa-dee-ka, means "hello" in Thai.  During obon, Japan's two week summer holiday, we grew accusomted to the round, friendly ka's and wa's of the Thai language.  After a while, the open syllables start to taste like mango sticky rice.  Thailand is a rich, wonderfully tactile country with golden temples, buzzing motorbikes, open-air taxis (tuk-tuks), and clean, white sand.  Vendors run fold-up restaurants parked behind their counters so you can enjoy your street food protected from the rain.  Smells of coconut and red curry follow you everywhere and golden Buddha statues greet you in unexpected places. Our experience with Thai people was very positive overall, and we were welcomed with sweeping smiles, hospitality and genuine kindness.  When you're handed the keys of a shiny motorbike for twenty-four hours for the equivalent of five dollars (never mind one helmet is broken) or a heaping plate of spicy papaya salad for a dollar, or a pint of Singha beer for less than one hundred yen, kop khun kha (thank you) feels inadequate.
Water taxi to Bangkok's Royal Disctrict
Always step over the temple's entranceway

Long earlobes= good listening

The overall amicability of Thai people causes you to excuse the few incidents of feeling accosted by persistent men pushing cheap wooden elephant paraphernalia, or being overcharged by aggressive tuk-tuk drivers, or finding yourself stranded at someone's friend's shady business with overpriced bus tickets instead of the real bus station.  As Westerners, two weeks in Thailand allowed us, mostly, to escape the psychological effects of finances.  When you can hypothetically buy five twenty oz lattes for less than the price of one beer from a bar in Japan, you begin to experience a startling, inconsequential outlook on money.  When you can have everything, what do you do?  Understanding why some people demand that you pay more because they know you can do so (strikingly reminiscent of other topics) is a good start.  We sampled Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai, and finally the south-western island of Koh Liphe over our thirteen day stay. 
Dinner in Bangkok
Fresh grapes

Weekend market, Bangkok




Water taxi ride, Bangkok
    
We took a bus from Bangkok to the old capital, Ayutthaya, for a day trip before taking the twelve hour sleeper train to Chiang Mai.


The historic city, and its ruins, are preserved as a World Heritage site
Famous reclining Buddha (29 m long)
Wat Phra Si Sanphet




Wat Phra Mahatha














Our favorite city was Chiang Mai, where temples and shrines stand on every corner, dotting the map as thickly as Starbucks in Seattle.  There we attended a "Monk Chat" while visiting Mahachulalongkornrajvidalaya (wow!!) Buddhist University and the adjacent Wat Suan Dok.  This program allows monks to practice their English and visitors to learn about basic principles of Buddhism. We talked privately with a young monk for over an hour.  Chiang Mai and its verdurous countryside are easily accessible by bicycle and motorbike- our primary transportation during our three days there.


The rain didn't stop us 
Hiking to famous Mt. temple, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep
Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep




                       
A particularly memorable day on the outskirts of the city included an all inclusive hiking, elephant riding, white water rafting, waterfall swimming and bamboo raft floating trip.  We were accompanied by three other Americans, our age, and a hilarious Thai guide named Mu who provided unforgettable entertainment.  Our hike through rice fields, lush landscapes and across rivers was beautiful.  We even saw little children in their uniforms walking home from school through the valleys.
 
Planting rice patties
On the hike
School kids in the distance

Our friends during the elephant trek















Zip-lining at lake Huay Teung Tao, Chiang Mai






From Chiang Mai we flew southeast to Hat Yai and then took a minibus to the port town, Pakbara. Thailand's south is eighty percent Muslim so mosques spot the streets and the atmosphere and lifestyle, not promoted economically by a strong tourist industry, is strikingly different.  While Pakbara wasn't too exciting, our guesthouse was charming, settled on a small pond, and served delicious pineapple and banana pancakes for breakfast.




The following morning we boarded the speed boat to Koh Liphe.  Our five night stay at Serendipity resort was unforgettable and best explained with pictures.
Speed boat to the island with mostly Thai people


The view from our balcony


Sunrise from our balcony

Room service one call away
 

The kitty who showed up and stayed for four days
Breakfast every morning

 

Overall, our trip was cheap as tofu (did you know that you can buy around 600 grams of tofu for about 45 cents in Japan?) but bursting with activities that would usually deplete our yen.  Our stay with Serendipity included a private snorkeling and island-hopping trip which was a lot of fun.  We also went on a night safari (during which I was licked by a giraffe) in Chiang Mai.  I drank too many lattes and Stephen once ate coconut mango sticky rice three times in one afternoon.  We had a total of four massages each and went shopping for leather products that cost five times the price anywhere else we've been. From one haze of delicious, spicy phad thai to the next it was tempting to quit our jobs and stay forever.  We realized, though, that this kind of absurdly lavish living is best in controlled doses.... but we'll be back!