tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13024453542342339462024-03-05T01:57:40.256-08:00Life in JapanThe Adventures of Claire and Stephen, Japanese-StyleClaire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comBlogger24125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-3079564670526283112012-11-14T07:19:00.002-08:002012-11-14T17:53:57.615-08:00Light, Shadows and Sakushima IslandGreetings!<br />
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It's finally fall here in Nagoya. This week, scarves alone are insubstantial and bare-handed bike riding causes the fingers to stiffen. We shoved the neglected fan into the back of the closet only yesterday (traveling has replaced tidying these days) and the gas heater now sits on the tatami. My favorite activity is nearly clinging to the heater, which is also bad for the hands, but we've resorted primarily to warm blankets and Japanese-style baths. </div>
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Before I recount our trip to Taiwan I must write about our excursion to Sakushima Island last weekend. Our student, Yoshiko, loves taking teachers on day trips. This has been my favorite thus far with ideal light and autumn weather. Thanks to local university students, the island is dappled with art and the population of three hundred finally has some visitors. </div>
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Sakushima holds countless surprises. I loved the purple-sanded beach, dyed from the crushing of underfoot mussels, and the windy coastline paths. Depending on your route, you'll find sparkling quartz, white stone pebbles, or shrines with assorted offerings.<br />
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There's a flock of metal seagulls by the sea, squeaky on stilts, and numerous statues waiting to be climbed at the nose of peninsulas. There's a creative spotting at every turn, like rainbow-tile benches, as well as features of local life, like decrepit watering cans and thriving gardens. We saw numerous centenarians still pushing wheelbarrows full of carrots and daikon or stooping low to pick vegetables. There are wooded areas vacant of sound and an ancient tomb, a thousand years old, shrouded by trees (said to be protected by the mountain god). In total, eighty-eight small shrines are scattered across the island. We learned that the town's characteristically black houses are meant to disguise the staining of saltwater. They give the island its old nickname, "Black Pearl."<br />
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As we headed to the island's western side, we met a goat, a ridiculous ostrich, and plenty of Jizo (the protector of children) statues. Around noon we stopped at Yoshiko's favorite restaurant, which she's personally ridden with foreigners, for the local speciality: fried clams over rice with sides of miso soup, pickled daikon, and seaweed soaked in vinegar and lemon juice. Eating local is always rewarding!<br />
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Light and shadows framed our day of exploration. Everything looked crisper and almost theatric with the autumn rays at work. Sakushima is an ideal place to appreciate the soul of the season, even with the deafening wind. Just bring a coat!</div>
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Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-11976626729181963662012-05-20T21:56:00.001-07:002012-07-19T18:26:19.307-07:00Island Hopping in Hong KongNay ho!<br />
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Hong Kong left us eager for more. While our expectations for skyscrapers and crowded streets were fully met, we were given an unexpected dose of greenery and local culture. Imagine small villages and cows tyrannizing pedestrian roads. Hong Kong is a fusion of urban and rural lifestyles connected by water. The short ferry rides between the major and outlying islands offer nice views and a permanent swaying sensation. We spent seven days sailing back and forth, enjoying the area's distinctive faces, and loved our findings (even the stinky tofu)!<br />
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We were lucky enough to have two spectacular hosts, Stephen's cousin, Fatima, and her Hong Konger boyfriend, Jackie. They made our trip one of the most unforgettable we've taken! Not only are they knowledgeable about the local culture and best places to explore, they're lots of fun. And Fatima collects tea and pretty pillows. I felt unbelievably lucky to share our experience of Hong Kong with them and will always equate our trip with our time spent together.<br />
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Fatima and Jackie live in one of Lantau Island's many small villages surrounded by hills and vegetation. At night, the path from the waterside town to their house is warm and full of crickets, and by day, narrowed by locals on bikes. The village restaurants have fresh seafood and the markets astoundingly cheap fruit (If you're Japanese and used to paying over $50 for watermelon). It was an idyllic place to create a home-base.<br />
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While Hong Kong was full of highlights, the scenic islands created a peaceful atmosphere in a place known for its intense metropolitan culture. We spent the majority of our evenings (and a couple days) on Lantau with Fatima and Jackie but also stayed a night on Lamma island. The weather was ceaselessly warm and the wildlife chirping and biting. We ate a lot of seafood at open-air restaurants and loved the break from our usual Japanese diet. Everywhere we went the menus were endless, hoarding page after page of Chinese dishes twisted with a Hong Kong influence. While Japanese food is known for its refinement and simplicity, the food in Hong Kong is exciting, oily, and full-bodied.<br />
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On one hot afternoon, after lathering on the sunscreen, Fatima took us on a bike "tour" around Lantau. We rode through brightly-colored villages, some houses bearing large Christian crosses, up tree-shrouded hills, and past docile cattle roaming and pooping uninhibited. She took us to a waterfall framed by woods and Stephen immediately made the barefooted climb up the rocks to the cascading water's center for a bath. So far, he's sat in two waterfalls in two Asian countries. <br />
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Another morning Fatima and Jackie took us to "The Venice of the East," Tai O fishing village on Lantau. The open-air houses stand on stilts above the water and are connected by railed pathways and bridges. The village is doused with color, texture, and a distinct local character. Residents sat in the sunny air of their living rooms watching TV, hung their laundry on rickety lines, and dried fish on the curves and dips of roofs. It felt invasive to literally wander through the edges of people's homes but the paths lent no other option. In some areas the tide was out, leaving crabs and other sea-life naked by rocks beneath the houses. What a backyard! Following Jackie's tour of the village, we took a speedboat out on the water to see General's Rock (a formation that resembles a soldier's face), dolphins, and the horizon of mainland China. Speedboat rides always smear an enormous smile on my face (I feel like an excited dog) so I was happy regardless of not seeing the sneaky dolphins beneath the waves!<br />
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Hong Kong Island is thirty to fifty minutes from Lantau depending on which ferry you catch. Constantly crossing water was refreshing and granted some spectacular night views of downtown. One evening, before strolling down the Avenue of Stars on the Victoria Harbor waterfront (and taking combat photos with the famous Bruce Lee statue) we witnessed another prime view of the skyline. This time, the famous buildings were performers in a lights show and enacted a flashy duet accompanied by music and narration. Though in Chinese, the show was pretty impressive and engendered the awareness, "I am in HONG KONG, a Metropolitan capital of THE WORLD!" Afterwards, Jackie took us to an unforgettable hot-pot restaurant that completely overshadowed Japan's simpler version with its sauces, spices, and overall variety.<br />
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Not every dish in Hong Kong is safe. Before going downtown, Fatima warned us of the infamous "stinky tofu" that's also popular in Taiwan and mainland China. It's a local dish of fermented tofu with an incredibly powerful stench. You know it's coming from blocks away. After we visited the colorful fish, flower, and bird markets, Stephen stopped to buy some. Honestly, it smells a lot worse than it tastes. The problem is you smell like rotting fecal matter afterward. This was made obvious when Stephen finished his tofu, went into a store, and was asked to leave! Even the locals don't always appreciate stinky tofu.<br />
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If you're visiting Hong Kong, it's worth the short speedboat ride eastward to visit Macau. This casino-country is an unusual blend of Asia and Europe. Though Hong Kong was occupied by Britain from the mid 1800s until 1997, the Western influence doesn't bleed from every building and street sign (an obsession with high tea is one of the more obvious cultural remnants) like it does in Macau. Portugal colonized this currently deemed "administrative region" of China for over four hundred years before it was ceded to the Chinese government in 1999. Due to Portugal's leisurely stay, the European influence is obvious in the architecture, local cuisine, and ubiquitous Portuguese writing. I never expected to experience such a hybrid of cultures in Asia.<br />
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The speedboat ride to Macau was ridden with gambling advertisements on flat-screen TVs that successfully made us fantasize about what we'd do with a million dollars. After going through customs, our first stop was the Chapel of St. Xavier on the island's southern tip. The church is a cheerful yellow with white curves and pastel frames. It's as nearly impressive as the famous Portuguese style cafe next door! There zonked travelers sit in the shade and drink sangria while enjoying the backdrop. After a lunch of prawns and curried vegetables we went to check in at the Hotel Royal. The cab ride provided an overview of Macau's glamorous casino scape and towering hotels. It was strange to see the Portuguese architecture randomly juxtaposed with the Vegas-esque environment. During our stay we attended a show, ate amazing nachos, checked out the ruins of St. Paul's cathedral, and Stephen got lucky at blackjack!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiGRRFbNwKGwwybRSu5u8hD6iuF0a8Q1g6NdxQvItLusK-WiP4xuoZzQEHSsZwia8rkFoeJ__pvLtCtg0PqlG4OAZ5cjKuSaJvkP3Tvw2hYxwOYXgLLM0kgE2jYQ4OUQxgiojMFTatJ1w/s1600/545083_729544639855_32405179_34490028_292731898_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiGRRFbNwKGwwybRSu5u8hD6iuF0a8Q1g6NdxQvItLusK-WiP4xuoZzQEHSsZwia8rkFoeJ__pvLtCtg0PqlG4OAZ5cjKuSaJvkP3Tvw2hYxwOYXgLLM0kgE2jYQ4OUQxgiojMFTatJ1w/s320/545083_729544639855_32405179_34490028_292731898_n.jpg" width="240" /></a>Stephen has good karma. His luck continued when Fatima and Jackie took us to the Happy Valley (horse) Raceway in Hong Kong. Before each race, you can preview the horses brandishing their well-groomed manes and muscles. The stadium's culminated energy is contagious and you can sense the tension and money-to-be-lost. Everyone is drinking beer and screaming on their selected gambles. Though I never bet in Hong Kong or Macau, I enjoyed the atmosphere and like to think that I contributed to Stephen's winning (and strategic stopping)!<br />
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Our last venture in Hong Kong was to Lamma Island, home to a trendy town full of seaside restaurants, bars, and boutiques. There we found both an organic convenience store, where we stocked up on natural peanut butter and dried beans to haul back to Japan, and a vegetarian breakfast cafe. I was surprised by the ubiquitous amount of "100% Organic" and "Vegan" products throughout Hong Kong, especially on an outlying island. Lamma was a perfect place to spend our remaining HK dollars. We purchased the bamboo tea tray we'd been looking for to accompany our new pu-erh tea and pot. Chinese bamboo trays do well in humid climates, as they become stronger with water absorption, so it should absolutely thrive this summer in Japan!<br />
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Thanks for reading about our recent trip and another big thank you to Fatima and Jackie! Our next destination is the US in August for two weeks. We're super excited to see everyone! I'm also looking forward to the reverse culture shock bound to occur after nearly two years in Japan. </div>
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See you soon! </div>
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Claire</div>Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-87240691184422650782012-04-22T05:59:00.002-07:002012-07-19T18:10:38.817-07:00Blossoms<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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It's a rainy Sunday evening in Nagoya and I'm enjoying the leisurely temperature of 55 degrees. We've entered the ephemeral transition between gluing ourselves to the gas heater and sweating buckets and killing cockroaches. It's such a perfect temperature, I'll be sad once it's gone!</div>
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Today, Stephen and I rode our bikes against the wind and downpour to a great Okinawan cafe in Osu Kannon. I made the mistake of purchasing a plastic umbrella from the nearby convenience store ("combini") which immediately turned into a jagged mess of umbrella innards. I was delighted, though, with all the reactions I got holding it with one hand all the way there. <br />
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Unfortunately, I lose every umbrella I buy and am therefore frequently stranded without shelter. Yesterday I felt guilty as I half-considered taking the stray one I saw at the ATM. As I've mentioned and is generally known about Japan, people don't take what doesn't belong to them. It's a comfortable place to live for that reason, and if you lose your wallet it's highly plausible that some honest person will bring it, unviolated, to the police. So as I stood in line eying the nicely embroidered pink umbrella (that obviously hadn't ever turned inside-out), I realized that I couldn't be the stereotypical foreigner obstructing the holy moral law. Even if only in my own perception. Living in Japan will fine-tune your awareness of social propriety (even if it means you have to mummify your head in a sheer scarf to avoid getting soaked). It will also make you realize how blunt the characters are on American TV shows!<br />
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Anyway, apart from weighty moral dilemmas, life has been bright and happy. Our new contracts began last Tuesday (after a couple of irregular weeks full of fairly brainless trainings and annual meetings) and we've since had all our new classes. I'm fortunate this year because I have a lot of fantastic, high level students (as well as a class that I love and carried over from last year) who are very engaged and eager to learn. I'm also teaching a couple news-based courses where we watch CNN and BBC clips and discuss recent stories. It's been rejuvenating to meet new people and have a fresh schedule, and although I loved having the little turds (children) last year, I'm glad to have no regular kids classes. I find that my days are less stressful and more clean without them!<br />
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Spring is undeniably the happiest time in Japan. It denotes the arrival of cherry blossoms (sakura) and lighthearted enjoyment for all who attend sakura-reveling parties (hanami). Everything begins with the cherry blossoms here, even the new school year for university students. In early April, our neighborhood Tsurumai park was packed with people sitting on blue tarps beneath the flowers. Everyone was drinking sake and the area was dotted with food-vendors selling corn on the cob, takoyaki (fried octopus), yaki soba (fried noodles), and other hanami refreshments. Since I started training for a half-marathon this August, I've been running most days in the park so have regularly enjoyed the sunshine and happy scenery. At the blossom's peak, we went to Gojo river and the Inuyama festival with friends. It was dubbed the happiest day in Japan because everyone there was clearly having such a great time!<br />
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Besides pink blossoms, the new school year, riding our bikes without heavy coats and taking weekly Japanese lessons with our private sensei, we've been singing a lot of karaoke and saying goodbye to fellow teachers and friends leaving Japan. The life of an ECC teacher feels acutely cyclical at this time- new people are arriving and others are leaving at the culmination of Japan's beauty.<br />
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This evening I came across a list of things that foreigners miss after leaving Japan. With a year left before we depart on our Southeast Asia/Europe adventure (which should span about six months), I've been thinking about what I'll truly miss about life here.<br />
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Here is my <b>Top Ten</b> list so far:<br />
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1) Hot springs and heat-circulating Japanese bathtubs: cheap, heavenly, mentally and physically therapeutic.<br />
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2) Sushi (especially conveyer-belt), soba, ramen, miso soup, edamame, taiyaki (fish-shaped pastry filled with sweet red bean paste), takoyaki, onigiri (rice balls with a variety of stuffings), okonomiyaki (Osaka-inspired famous egg/cabbage pancake), even natto (fermented soybeans)<br />
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3) Green tea vending machines<br />
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4) Karaoke: 24/7, private rooms, and all you can eat/drink deals.<br />
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5) Transportation: insanely reliable trains/subways, some of which go 186 mph.<br />
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6) Safety (I very rarely feel the need to look over my shoulder, which is very refreshing)<br />
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7) General cleanliness<br />
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8) Combini: the convenience stores not only have a variety of snack choices but healthy ones.<br />
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9) Lunch deals: order a full lunch "set" and often get unlimited coffee, salad, soup, rice, etc.<br />
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10) Generally very nice and considerate people!<br />
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Others: Cat cafes, ping-pongs (buttons you push to call your server at most bars and restaurants), accessible bike lanes, not having to wear a helmet by law, drinking alcohol in public, trying to read and understand Japanese, seeing eccentric fashion, exaggerated, over-the-top advertisements for coffee and beer, going to the land of the supermarket, buying fresh produce at the farmer's market, izakaya (Japanese-style bars and restaurants), the sakura season, the general obsession with characters (such as Hello Kitty) and their paraphernalia, rice-cookers, and heated toilet seats.<br />
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It's so easy to live in Japan. I truly love living here. Of course there are annoying aspects (that's for another post, perhaps), but overall it's going to be hard to leave. Thankfully we'll have enough to look forward to to propel us onto a plane.<br />
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Speaking of planes, this weekend brings our journey to Hong Kong! We leave on Sunday morning and are staying for eight days. It's going to be an adventure, and I'm going to write about it afterward, I promise!<br />
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-Claire<br />
<br />Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-5736501307912661412011-12-17T00:50:00.000-08:002012-07-19T18:12:24.166-07:00Cosplay and Maid CafesIt's December and far too late to be updating. I figured I should post before the to-write list expands!<br />
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Recently, we've taken many trips (of all kinds: day trips, work trips, two day trips) and seen a lot of beautiful fall leaves and crazy outfits. In November we had the opportunity to travel to Gero (with another teacher and good friend of ours) for a kid's Christmas event. Though a month early, Stephen was the skinniest Santa in history. The kids loved him! Afterwards, we went to one of Gero's many renowned hot springs to cleanse ourselves of the hyper holiday spirit and germy five to eleven year olds. We purchased a wooden pass, also a beautiful souvenir, good for three visits to the area's famous onsen. It was only 1200 yen, which is surprising as the springs include spa-like amenities. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOLRIih63FhFIaXH9GWEgV2eOHWhclgdFsLCn4LRufSt7QvPzXrqiT7SQl1KGtkZoH_dRq5m8z2ZEuKOu-a-8o1z7Ts6UXPJOzoldqmpfPt9j7_UGF5yo8T_7YH6k90McM2XrczI0GTOY/s1600/IMG_2762.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOLRIih63FhFIaXH9GWEgV2eOHWhclgdFsLCn4LRufSt7QvPzXrqiT7SQl1KGtkZoH_dRq5m8z2ZEuKOu-a-8o1z7Ts6UXPJOzoldqmpfPt9j7_UGF5yo8T_7YH6k90McM2XrczI0GTOY/s320/IMG_2762.jpg" width="320" /></a>Last weekend, to my supreme delight, Stephen surprised me with a three-year anniversary trip to Yokohama, Tokyo, and Tokyo Disneysea. We woke up at five-thirty on Sunday morning to catch the Shinkansen and were soon walking down the promenade of Yamashita Park. The train took less than two hours, which is amazing as the bus ride takes about seven. The view of Mt. Fuji was spectacular! In Yokohama we visited the famous China Town and ate delicious and insanely popular oil-filled dumplings. We also bought Pu-erh and Jasmine tea and drank mango tapioca smoothies.<br />
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From Yokohama we caught the subway for an afternoon in Tokyo, starting in Shibuya. The four-legged pedestrian crossing outside of Shibuya station is the busiest in the world, though it doesn't seem like it when you're standing in the center. Everything is efficient and orderly (minus the two foreigners taking photos and blocking traffic). Outside the station we saw another interesting sight: a protest of the government's intentional starvation of contaminated cows in Fukushima. The protesters held large signs broadcasting photos of the maltreatment and were yelling over loud speakers. <br />
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In Harajuku we experienced the essence of Japan's wild subculture and eccentric fashion. This is where "cosplay"(short for costume play) originated and continues to scream in all directions since teenagers flock there to buy more of it. After wandering the narrow streets lined with boutiques and restaurants, we stood in line to try Japanese udon noodles with an Italian twist. The bizarre pairing, pesto and udon, encapsulated the district's love for the trendy, modern and distinct. It was actually delicious!<br />
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Next we headed to Akihabara, the nation's gadget capital. It's a hot spot for "otaku" (the well known techie, or geek, subculture). Stephen was excited when he found a new videogame for a bargain and I was excited to see Sega and Mortal Combat everywhere. Here we also had our first Maid Cafe experience. These cafes, throughout Japan, consist of women dressed in maid outfits who dote and serve you beer or cute desserts. You can even pay an obscene amount to have your photo taken with your server (this was very popular ). It was a little mind-boggling to see the lone Japanese men sitting, drinking, and staring, but there were also couples on dates. Our waitress was really sweet - when we were ready to order we had to call her name (followed by "chan," which is endearing) and meow like cats. No kidding. And our parfait was shaped like a bear with Oreo ears!</div>
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Tokyo Disneysea was filled with elaborate fountain and lights shows (complete with jet skis and fireballs), miming characters including a shockingly tall Jifar, and Japanese people sporting Mickey Mouse ears. We finally understood why even our lower level students use and understand "imagine" and "imagination" so effortlessly. It's some of the only English used in the shows. We spent a lot of time in Aladin town and, appropriately, ate curry, naan, and curry spiced popcorn. It was my first Disney-Anything experience and I liked how each district was distinctly themed, including the food. In Japan, as Mom read in an article and told me, more adults than children go to Disneyland and Disneysea. This is not surprising since everyone seems to be obsessed with Mickey. Disneysea is also geared towards couples with its alcohol service and romantic restaurants. Little Italy was especially "quaint," though we decided to skip the long line to ride gondolas (once you've done the real thing Disneysea doesn't measure up).<br />
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In other news, this upcoming week is filled with Christmas parties and kid's craft lessons. We started to make a chocolate house but accidently ate chocolate vital to the procedure. The weather has finally turned (fall stayed really late this year), mandating scarves and jackets. We're actually learning Japanese. I'll have more updates after the winter vacation! Stay warm everyone!<br />
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ClaireClaire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-864064841848086082011-10-02T18:13:00.000-07:002012-07-19T18:13:53.457-07:00Happy October!<div class="MsoNormal">
Today the smells of simmering nashi (Japanese pear) and butternut squash suffused our apartment. We drank hot green tea for the first time in months (as October brought a blissful rush of cool air) and lit pumpkin-shaped candles. I made butternut squash stew and hummus. I feel the need to be poetic- can you tell? Lately I’ve been dreaming of dysmorphic squash, sitting on front decks like colorful, twisted mutants, and pumpkin seeds spawned from grinning orange gourds. Today welcomed long-sleeves and rich and earthly aromas. I love fall and its prickling wind, watching red leaves turning on their bellies.</div>
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Fall also brought visitors! Last week we visited Nara, Osaka and Kyoto with Stephen's dad and brother, Bill and Travis. Together we were harassed by brash, uncomfortably domesticated deer (that enjoyed eating maps), sang karaoke, burned our mouths on takoyaki, and enjoyed raw wagyu beef and tongue. We stayed at the Apple House in Kyoto, a traditional Japanese home with a small tatami room, kitchen, a second-story bedroom with four futons, and apple paraphernalia everywhere. Together, over the course of the trip, we managed to eat soba, tempura, udon (thick noodles), oden (a convenient-store speciality), conveyer-belt sushi, raw meat of all kinds, ramen, takoyaki (Osaka's fried octopus balls), matcha (finely-milled green tea) tea and ice-cream, donburi (rice bowl topped with beef and egg), okonomiyaki (Osaka's "pancake"made with cabbage, flour, and egg), nikuman (meat-filled dumplings), motchi (Kyoto's sweet specialty), nabe (meat/vegetable hot-pot), and yakitori (fried chicken). As Travis and Stephen were ready for action, that's only a small sample of the menu. It was a great trip with the Morrissey monkey men and watching them in their natural environment was very interesting for an outside observer. You can check out the photos on Facebook!</div>
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Our next major adventure will be to Hokkaido, Japan’s northern most island, for winter vacation. We’re going skiing for four days, staying at a lodge, and then heading to Sapporo for New Years. Apparently Hokkaido has some of the top powder in the world- as a first time skier, the softer the snow, the better!</div>
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Today we've been invited to lunch by one of Stephen's students (he gets us a lot of home invites) in Arimatsu. She kindly offered to cook us a traditional Japanese meal at her house. I can't wait! </div>
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Stay wary of hungry deer,</div>
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Claire</div>Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-13718476488609038582011-08-25T21:32:00.000-07:002012-07-19T18:15:30.459-07:00Sawadee Ka!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">-pronounced <i>so-wa-dee</i>-<i>ka</i>, means "hello" in Thai. During obon, Japan's two week summer holiday, we grew accusomted to the round, friendly <i>ka</i>'s and <i>wa</i>'s of the Thai language. After a while, the open syllables start to taste like mango sticky rice. Thailand is a rich, wonderfully tactile country with golden temples, buzzing motorbikes, open-air taxis (<i>tuk-tuks), </i>and clean, white sand<i>. </i>Vendors run fold-up restaurants parked behind their counters so you can enjoy your street food protected from the rain. Smells of coconut and red curry follow you everywhere and golden Buddha statues greet you in unexpected places. Our experience with Thai people was very positive overall, and we were welcomed with sweeping smiles, hospitality and genuine kindness. When you're handed the keys of a shiny motorbike for twenty-four hours for the equivalent of five dollars (never mind one helmet is broken) or a heaping plate of spicy papaya salad for a dollar, or a pint of Singha beer for less than one hundred yen, <i>kop khun kha</i> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">(thank you) feels inadequate.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Water taxi to Bangkok's Royal Disctrict</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Always step over the temple's entranceway</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Long earlobes= good listening</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kismT266jdso2WIdnZ12WMc1wXLZ9nLoV-JFOb-ZhTHm1bj6Af-qufR8V86O8baC98VEidLSVAUUFbIr6U_n-xeBx7xdP7_f68B09N0gdtQbRZssOk7NqCAgQejdxZ_wVLqEnjUDeU8/s1600/DSCN2107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kismT266jdso2WIdnZ12WMc1wXLZ9nLoV-JFOb-ZhTHm1bj6Af-qufR8V86O8baC98VEidLSVAUUFbIr6U_n-xeBx7xdP7_f68B09N0gdtQbRZssOk7NqCAgQejdxZ_wVLqEnjUDeU8/s320/DSCN2107.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0t5lZlNG1k28ZqBicii30qqgVkT0fpep61dOXQ3InUPeT6ZgJzEWz0ubHSd0_RzaZ6jQ40dZGzqLqYwrmcqmJAnwUoiq-zVJiRbwcuP7AkGkGXmmghvRJnyKflJeP8JdsHX1slen1To/s1600/DSCN2059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kismT266jdso2WIdnZ12WMc1wXLZ9nLoV-JFOb-ZhTHm1bj6Af-qufR8V86O8baC98VEidLSVAUUFbIr6U_n-xeBx7xdP7_f68B09N0gdtQbRZssOk7NqCAgQejdxZ_wVLqEnjUDeU8/s1600/DSCN2107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">The overall amicability of Thai people causes you to excuse the few </span>incidents of feeling accosted by persistent men pushing cheap wooden elephant paraphernalia, or being overcharged by aggressive <i>tuk-tuk</i> drivers, or finding yourself stranded at someone's friend's shady business with overpriced bus tickets instead of the real bus station. As Westerners, two weeks in Thailand allowed us, mostly, to escape the psychological effects of finances. When you can hypothetically buy five twenty oz lattes for less than the price of one beer from a bar in Japan, you begin to experience a startling, inconsequential outlook on money. When you can have everything, what do you do? Understanding why some people demand that you pay more because they know you can do so (strikingly reminiscent of other topics) is a good start. We sampled Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai, and finally the south-western island of Koh Liphe over our thirteen day stay. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Dinner in Bangkok</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuK_PfDoM-VmuHcW6HgiLHqdIJ1YQJoxSRA8os-rNYN-9ZsqScc2Q_j-JZZTwzMnl09KAgxrwbOmiaS16F6H1lVYjdBPbYDYfWhmoOs7f_bAxPBYRRT8zo98SZziyjsLtrQ_vqKGf_RTE/s1600/DSCN2178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuK_PfDoM-VmuHcW6HgiLHqdIJ1YQJoxSRA8os-rNYN-9ZsqScc2Q_j-JZZTwzMnl09KAgxrwbOmiaS16F6H1lVYjdBPbYDYfWhmoOs7f_bAxPBYRRT8zo98SZziyjsLtrQ_vqKGf_RTE/s320/DSCN2178.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Fresh grapes</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Weekend market, Bangkok</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water taxi ride, Bangkok</td></tr>
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We took a bus from Bangkok to the old capital, Ayutthaya, for a day trip before taking the twelve hour sleeper train to Chiang Mai.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The historic city, and its ruins, are preserved as a World Heritage site</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Famous reclining Buddha (29 m long)</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Wat Phra Si Sanphet</span></td></tr>
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Our favorite city was Chiang Mai, where temples and shrines stand on every corner, dotting the map as thickly as Starbucks in Seattle. There we attended a "Monk Chat" while visiting <span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 18px;">Mahachulalongkornrajvidalaya (wow!!) </span>Buddhist University and the adjacent Wat Suan Dok. This program allows monks to practice their English and visitors to learn about basic principles of Buddhism. We talked privately with a young monk for over an hour. Chiang Mai and its verdurous countryside are easily accessible by bicycle and motorbike- our primary transportation during our three days there.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVgqttMSD6hRc8J_h_z3rb7_scjGwLbeelBUUcTsDZKtRxQXCGgqrgYaz7HZ-l2mk-jemQUW4k2szj3z33hJuJNI-w7gJw9bn6_xpLbpTQHaPIwoM0WI6gGWP6ET6LL-taZvX0aeEtw4/s1600/DSCN2776.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVgqttMSD6hRc8J_h_z3rb7_scjGwLbeelBUUcTsDZKtRxQXCGgqrgYaz7HZ-l2mk-jemQUW4k2szj3z33hJuJNI-w7gJw9bn6_xpLbpTQHaPIwoM0WI6gGWP6ET6LL-taZvX0aeEtw4/s400/DSCN2776.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6SPIDBIOavC6Cv5bPauTO07rOZ1dxH2lN1db4i34DimRAxZiWvADHs47MeF0TQORqqAq6-xQvZ0Aikj2o2hHF01fUJ79R-tSp6BrqNW-5CARA8X_QRpWX5-nBMbRU7t6uigMRiFem8IY/s1600/DSCN2785.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6SPIDBIOavC6Cv5bPauTO07rOZ1dxH2lN1db4i34DimRAxZiWvADHs47MeF0TQORqqAq6-xQvZ0Aikj2o2hHF01fUJ79R-tSp6BrqNW-5CARA8X_QRpWX5-nBMbRU7t6uigMRiFem8IY/s200/DSCN2785.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The rain didn't stop us </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuuupjkkSd2dVeWDgj-z-utir_Vm-acU7BrfrmpgBpEtfupvWxaGufDjXAlVirbtnxY1oY0ZD6_nng_a4dok_FunuJBO8oS8D9hIZMUQLx2HWxQ30BhXCJgA0D31710D2J1ob9IhjfLS0/s1600/DSCN2500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuuupjkkSd2dVeWDgj-z-utir_Vm-acU7BrfrmpgBpEtfupvWxaGufDjXAlVirbtnxY1oY0ZD6_nng_a4dok_FunuJBO8oS8D9hIZMUQLx2HWxQ30BhXCJgA0D31710D2J1ob9IhjfLS0/s320/DSCN2500.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Hiking to famous Mt. temple, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPEEqgl8PL8qvALDY1UQVKJAOZLwZr5BcXbbImzWJYrXlh2-t0Sas7maOpZSsvefE1cmFuPf3AiqSPezv3UwG10NrUVxiuc07J7YP1xRpSemS2pTeSLKVAjqj55qJi8r30roOFhgaEfFw/s1600/DSCN2544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPEEqgl8PL8qvALDY1UQVKJAOZLwZr5BcXbbImzWJYrXlh2-t0Sas7maOpZSsvefE1cmFuPf3AiqSPezv3UwG10NrUVxiuc07J7YP1xRpSemS2pTeSLKVAjqj55qJi8r30roOFhgaEfFw/s640/DSCN2544.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">A particularly memorable day on the outskirts of the city included an all inclusive hiking, elephant riding, white water rafting, waterfall swimming and bamboo raft floating trip. We were accompanied by three other Americans, our age, and a hilarious Thai guide named Mu who provided unforgettable entertainment. Our hike through rice fields, lush landscapes and across rivers was beautiful. We even saw little children in their uniforms walking home from school through the valleys.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="clear: left; font-family: inherit; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOxK95EoDm3LWYmn4-Qn-fRrFRAc96coOTw3mQ06tHvjESOPwNRPnRCNF1A-l8Q7CMUDtVIz8N1s69SgwPcPKkxUdh-1Y8JFBcsinRKB2y3bmVOTZPufEhL-TdEwqHoHXHqcD4jrPhUc4/s1600/DSCN2667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOxK95EoDm3LWYmn4-Qn-fRrFRAc96coOTw3mQ06tHvjESOPwNRPnRCNF1A-l8Q7CMUDtVIz8N1s69SgwPcPKkxUdh-1Y8JFBcsinRKB2y3bmVOTZPufEhL-TdEwqHoHXHqcD4jrPhUc4/s640/DSCN2667.jpg" width="480" /></a> </span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Planting rice patties</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">On the hike</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOlvB_Mk6xhvd34YmX6wFkPmfDNoTFp9gUCBKPizp7p1t_d54bxGWWDbCNf1OXHhGp7IDdnSAX43tv2Q9gUkbE9cBM4HF6pBuuBx9S_HwCxU4RdWR9W1yt1uEBF8IpeZnBpXjtM4c0W0/s1600/DSCN2654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOlvB_Mk6xhvd34YmX6wFkPmfDNoTFp9gUCBKPizp7p1t_d54bxGWWDbCNf1OXHhGp7IDdnSAX43tv2Q9gUkbE9cBM4HF6pBuuBx9S_HwCxU4RdWR9W1yt1uEBF8IpeZnBpXjtM4c0W0/s400/DSCN2654.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">School kids in the distance</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6lSEajhrvAqqePumgU7SIHgV0SHgJ4xIGTxlIDwiL-aVN6x3KzxdTdFC9FOMrKItmBJ_ACIPl_dgvFpgCZBE5ej9TqIQfZZLa4oRsqvfmznfb-4GkQ0tqHX-uqxPRT3XsqwM2LHQcI7s/s1600/DSCN2708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6lSEajhrvAqqePumgU7SIHgV0SHgJ4xIGTxlIDwiL-aVN6x3KzxdTdFC9FOMrKItmBJ_ACIPl_dgvFpgCZBE5ej9TqIQfZZLa4oRsqvfmznfb-4GkQ0tqHX-uqxPRT3XsqwM2LHQcI7s/s400/DSCN2708.jpg" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Our friends during the elephant trek</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Zip-lining at lake Huay Teung Tao, Chiang Mai</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">From Chiang Mai we flew southeast to Hat Yai and then took a minibus to the port town, Pakbara. Thailand's south is eighty percent Muslim so mosques spot the streets and the atmosphere and lifestyle, not promoted economically by a strong tourist industry, is strikingly different. While Pakbara wasn't too exciting, our guesthouse was charming, settled on a small pond, and served delicious pineapple and banana pancakes for breakfast.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoyEErPitJJsBxt7sjyb-pLF7oloIMr9s8ciyGDYoS0R-sTSH2WhrAuNEQn_BbIdQuHmLTK1QsHOuMkpjmK46XpLztxvGtyhWiBiP7KCpwgoa0TVqCG8QzeW7mb49VZcGpQDId-AfD2WU/s1600/tha.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoyEErPitJJsBxt7sjyb-pLF7oloIMr9s8ciyGDYoS0R-sTSH2WhrAuNEQn_BbIdQuHmLTK1QsHOuMkpjmK46XpLztxvGtyhWiBiP7KCpwgoa0TVqCG8QzeW7mb49VZcGpQDId-AfD2WU/s320/tha.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The following morning we boarded the speed boat to Koh Liphe. Our five night stay at Serendipity resort was unforgettable and best explained with pictures.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Speed boat to the island with mostly Thai people</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU61bjK3c8vir8FJ4kF-5Fuo9AZwfE-m5OcTN3A_R0U40JNBYXGnMcI_urYHxyNtVchHeDl7pMKF2KDteNdeBFQNgHSvue20nVMJCFHHEJ-Vnzx_FR-FdihtlHEM9lMm28TXUN9Y0Gq9I/s1600/DSCN2990.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU61bjK3c8vir8FJ4kF-5Fuo9AZwfE-m5OcTN3A_R0U40JNBYXGnMcI_urYHxyNtVchHeDl7pMKF2KDteNdeBFQNgHSvue20nVMJCFHHEJ-Vnzx_FR-FdihtlHEM9lMm28TXUN9Y0Gq9I/s320/DSCN2990.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The view from our balcony</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0uT9nyQTW79FD6Iw-j9Rgopf24sEOvkSGHXfRLeVw7gz5Brq3SDpdFAzAVcL8ahGgZJV1DJj68ubTK6vIbSarDL15Fm-Ld3XdQVWIUxVHJlprq_R_t7G6E8_BLp7645kqjt8PZg-LgVM/s1600/DSCN3158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0uT9nyQTW79FD6Iw-j9Rgopf24sEOvkSGHXfRLeVw7gz5Brq3SDpdFAzAVcL8ahGgZJV1DJj68ubTK6vIbSarDL15Fm-Ld3XdQVWIUxVHJlprq_R_t7G6E8_BLp7645kqjt8PZg-LgVM/s200/DSCN3158.jpg" width="200" /></span></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChq3A75GJWK2kGbFFwJ8IV5rPT09YpIRJV_gE76H_KQQTzsOTsrCiHpEQNiuDTOI_lfdVrHTIZRbwDnCjYzNJrDaF595LHzajTNigVmWUexVjPHHLqmvDyu4CxOaHthUV14l4wsB3OvU/s1600/DSCN3043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChq3A75GJWK2kGbFFwJ8IV5rPT09YpIRJV_gE76H_KQQTzsOTsrCiHpEQNiuDTOI_lfdVrHTIZRbwDnCjYzNJrDaF595LHzajTNigVmWUexVjPHHLqmvDyu4CxOaHthUV14l4wsB3OvU/s200/DSCN3043.jpg" width="200" /></span></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWXDBdU54bvpBMMnlHKpqZtOKeLwjgLQJsEKmyXX02r5gpkA6N6rOyPp_ubvIAg3_we2Y-TfNIIAiV9mi3iZu299eqCHkUZMkuNJHhzFoU5vjCX_keabde-sPeCyb9asfy9GDUM7H2CY/s1600/DSCN3033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWXDBdU54bvpBMMnlHKpqZtOKeLwjgLQJsEKmyXX02r5gpkA6N6rOyPp_ubvIAg3_we2Y-TfNIIAiV9mi3iZu299eqCHkUZMkuNJHhzFoU5vjCX_keabde-sPeCyb9asfy9GDUM7H2CY/s320/DSCN3033.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCRRJuZMSc91B4ClU9PNRi-pWMx4GAxIBOch6_mS4n8WMIf3eBsw7PebYJt6hmOlnC3nyRco-W06NMQUL5YlADAslYVgabm1Sz63xglpcZJFCJUtMOUQQQcIxNlKdM5LOJvPEfIIZ9aNU/s1600/DSCN3114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCRRJuZMSc91B4ClU9PNRi-pWMx4GAxIBOch6_mS4n8WMIf3eBsw7PebYJt6hmOlnC3nyRco-W06NMQUL5YlADAslYVgabm1Sz63xglpcZJFCJUtMOUQQQcIxNlKdM5LOJvPEfIIZ9aNU/s640/DSCN3114.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Sunrise from our balcony</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidDZz9RojV206BrT2cGz7dE_Kb2FIdnJBj8GB37vdf7lWNLPKD3I6PK4UUN0ICLCR2AUmGcjHbSVfsNVrz_qAMrGnldRy3N9SbIUx0pfwoHcOqcsVpW3uLqU2ERygJljiy6B12Hwthx6s/s1600/DSCN3056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidDZz9RojV206BrT2cGz7dE_Kb2FIdnJBj8GB37vdf7lWNLPKD3I6PK4UUN0ICLCR2AUmGcjHbSVfsNVrz_qAMrGnldRy3N9SbIUx0pfwoHcOqcsVpW3uLqU2ERygJljiy6B12Hwthx6s/s320/DSCN3056.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Room service one call away</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdDZ2C_tUHjK__3RQ5tlYDA4sAnToKv7OVRHEthAy0fxMecUD6lTOo67_XZnZei0aiNM_lztvcEwPdJXx4h1WhQsM4avAD-bUNhyphenhyphenrNMzTg1vYHejAtbLHsZY9Pm0Vxj82b2nQbV_NHcww/s1600/DSCN3140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"></span></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXaQKiIJKLvpw84_uizLv_1NL7GKw6zmG4uU1HZ35-W8ANZslyF_ScrkWHx6Wu_62lJ6oD7o27wu06Mu3sLknuaW_IxuJ_8x4JN3sUrCE-gx24hfIQpe1ICprZq43qPRCqqs23_Ynqr-Y/s1600/DSCN3042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXaQKiIJKLvpw84_uizLv_1NL7GKw6zmG4uU1HZ35-W8ANZslyF_ScrkWHx6Wu_62lJ6oD7o27wu06Mu3sLknuaW_IxuJ_8x4JN3sUrCE-gx24hfIQpe1ICprZq43qPRCqqs23_Ynqr-Y/s400/DSCN3042.jpg" width="400" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijFSgN3CpnKtiWqg2hOgbtF5AC7-BcclouAuzwRCj2z4VAJEG0eKuveJq24032dledh01Io7fiUBIxjU3kJNUCufkFfnCpweNetRCbb-JG3rRm3loUNVcqmDzoBJEIDy7_8D5QqHWLzzI/s1600/DSCN3205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijFSgN3CpnKtiWqg2hOgbtF5AC7-BcclouAuzwRCj2z4VAJEG0eKuveJq24032dledh01Io7fiUBIxjU3kJNUCufkFfnCpweNetRCbb-JG3rRm3loUNVcqmDzoBJEIDy7_8D5QqHWLzzI/s320/DSCN3205.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The kitty who showed up and stayed for four days</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Breakfast every morning</span></td></tr>
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Overall, our trip was cheap as tofu (did you know that you can buy around 600 grams of tofu for about 45 cents in Japan?) but bursting with activities that would usually deplete our yen. Our stay with Serendipity included a private snorkeling and island-hopping trip which was a lot of fun. We also went on a night safari (during which I was licked by a giraffe) in Chiang Mai. I drank too many lattes and Stephen once ate coconut mango sticky rice three times in one afternoon. We had a total of four massages each and went shopping for leather products that cost five times the price anywhere else we've been. From one haze of delicious, spicy phad thai to the next it was tempting to quit our jobs and stay forever. We realized, though, that this kind of absurdly lavish living is best in controlled doses.... but we'll be back!<br />
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</div>Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-74799021648708005372011-07-11T19:01:00.000-07:002012-07-19T18:18:06.484-07:00Sweat and SobaOhayo!<br />
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Recently, we've been doing a lot of laundry, sweating, taking cold showers, and sweating. Honestly, it's not as bad as it sounds (the baby cockroach we discovered in the kitchen last night was adorable!).<br />
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We've also been escaping to air conditioned restaurants, like the traditional soba house next door. We'd been passing through the noodle cooked air for months and finally decided to give the place our full attention. Though all menus and signs are in kanji (no katakana whatsoever to the rescue) we gestured to the array of food at our neighboring table and said "sore, onegaishimasu (the never failing "that, please"). We were soon presented with a platter of handmade soba noodles on thick wooden trays and sides of wasabi, radish and peppers, as well as tempura. <br />
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The noodles were delicious and our waitress showed us the procedure of taking a small portion into your bowl of hot water and mixing in the side dishes as desired. At the end of the meal, she brought us a large teapot of hot water (that the soba had been cooked in) for us to drink plain in traditional fashion.<br />
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In other news, we spent the whole of Sunday and Monday two weekends ago planning our rapidly approaching trip to Thailand! We're spending two days in Bangkok, taking a day trip to the old capital, Ayutthaya, spending about three and a half days in Chiang Mai, and then flying south for island-exploration. We're staying at a nice resort and planning to thoroughly enjoy ourselves. I bought Lonely Planet's guide to Thailand for my Kindle so have been reading all about Thai culture and the places we're visiting. We're beyond excited!<br />
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I hope everyone at home is doing well and keeping cool! Have a great week and I'll try to update once more before our trip.<br />
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ClaireClaire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-83386852918913088502011-06-21T08:53:00.000-07:002012-07-19T18:19:14.210-07:00Happy Summer Solstice!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Toaster oven carrot cake and its perfect match: cream-cheese frosting! Grating the carrots was an arm workout and the apartment grew pretty toasty from the heat, even with the sliding doors open.<br />
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On Monday (our weekend) we visited a new cafe near our apartment. It has a clothing boutique and small art gallery upstairs, and the whole place rattles when trains cross the tracks above the ceiling. Anna, the barista, is visiting the States this summer so was happy to practice her English. Stephen was happy to eat chocolate-fudge cake and vanilla gelato.<br />
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</span></span></div>Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-24280155145252361452011-06-18T20:05:00.000-07:002012-07-19T18:18:48.506-07:00The Rainy Season Has Begun...What better way to spend it than relaxing in cafes and trying out new restaurants?<br />
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On Thursday I failed to bring my umbrella to work (naturally: it was bright and sunny), forgetting that spontaneous spurts of torrential rainfall are now permanently in the forecast. I had to buy a new umbrella for my seven-minute walk home from the station and left my bike to stay, covered but still vulnerable to sideways rain, in the racks outside the exit. While many Japanese people have mastered the balancing act of holding their umbrellas while pedaling, I've tipped over too many times to attempt this again.<br />
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The rainy season typically lasts through July. With our leisurely work schedules, we have plenty of time to explore Nagoya's food and cafe culture (indoors).<br />
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In the past few months, Nunc Nusq cafe near our apartment has become my frequent haven for good coffee and European-style sweets. As I've mentioned, fresh coffee in Nagoya is generally expensive, usually costing around 300 to 400 yen for a small cup. At Nunc Nusq cafe, coffee is 300 yen but well-priced given the sophisticated, relaxing atmosphere and rich blends. I've spent many hours there conversing, eating, and reading by the window (not to mention admiring the sprawling deli-presentation of pasta salads and elegant cakes). <br />
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This week, Stephen and I decided to try out the lunch menu. He ordered a set, which consisted of pasta in a rich beef-tomato sauce, salad, unlimited artisan bread, a main dish of a halibut-topped rice patty, and coffee for 1300 yen. I ordered beef-stroganoff which was delicious, presented on a bed of mixed rice. For the attractive presentation and high-quality of the food the meal was well-priced, especially after sharing a wonderful slice of lemon-meringue pie and not being charged for it!<br />
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Last night, craving a jolt to the taste buds, we decided to go to CasaBlanca, a Moroccan restaurant in Sakae. The food was mind-blowing with flavorful meats and unique spices. We shared a sample-platter including a variety of couscous, tender lamb skewers, hummus, and slightly sweet Briwat (crisp Moroccan spring rolls stuffed with beef). We also enjoyed sweet mango juice and traditional lemon-chicken Tajine: a thick, braised stew to be eaten with large wooden spoons. For dessert we ordered mint tea and Moroccan-style coffee infused with over 20 spices (presenting mainly cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger). I spent a long time just enjoying the warm aroma (it reminded me of Robertino's, as we made lattes with these autumn spices)! The restaurant's atmosphere was mesmerizing with bright, African decor lining the walls and colorful lamps and carpets, not to mention a 20 minute belly-dancing show! She brought members of the audience to the stage for a short lesson, including Stephen, and he was by far the greatest entertainment!</div>
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We also recently went to Pippin's Cafe in Tsurumai (we're surrounded by great cafes) for dinner sets and "New York Style" cheesecake! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixaAvVkEbmi57yKGxGB46j63GgttVVNO1eoPf7SyTpsurQ1wEy3t33v7AxzThElQU-DJQMcPPu2GYl3oiF0mDXBqxCzF_qIc_d0Y2QIz4DeAUuo3bviY3orIaj64hgB-DqcYigqQtNiUU/s1600/IMG_1699.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>More postings soon to come! Happy eating, everyone.Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-9497107237674698722011-06-14T17:01:00.001-07:002011-06-14T18:28:10.023-07:00<div class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkaJLGesvxyg7BNvdcWQY7802F4izEyDsvpk-_X2ueq8oWbNmBmjuUWtcGeRlO-njv5HqwuQOHrzk9PfIePvUkSL3bXqr8yfmUWpOu5ccD6vfqNWGlpiOJNC-ROHhLCp9qu6-01El8JO4/s1600/IMG_3955-719297.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5618230053432963986" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkaJLGesvxyg7BNvdcWQY7802F4izEyDsvpk-_X2ueq8oWbNmBmjuUWtcGeRlO-njv5HqwuQOHrzk9PfIePvUkSL3bXqr8yfmUWpOu5ccD6vfqNWGlpiOJNC-ROHhLCp9qu6-01El8JO4/s320/IMG_3955-719297.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<b>Homemade Toaster-Oven Banana Bread</b> on a Monday afternoon. I bought a narrow baking pan that fits and we were surprised at how well it worked without any temperature regulation (the toaster-oven seemed to regulate automatically). The only inconvenience was having to make two small loaves instead of a normal sized-loaf! Next conquest: mini carrot cakes.Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-77261302840943873852011-06-09T17:07:00.000-07:002011-06-10T08:28:39.488-07:00안녕하세요, South Korea!안녕하세요<br />
or, "An-nyeong-ha-se-yo!" (Konnichiwa)<br />
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Our long weekend in South Korea was a refreshing jolt to the senses. I loved Seoul's city sewage smells, bright colors, rugged pavement, and loud Korean voices. Everywhere you look there is a pleasant array of trash, whether it be coffee cans cluttering a table on a convenient store patio or a spontaneous chair sitting in an alleyway. There are inside-out bookstores with their shelves embedded in brick walls, vendors with tables crowding the sidewalks, and steep hills made of disorderly bricks and cracking cement. Patio cafes line the streets advertising cake and tea, hand-dripped coffee, and cream-cheese filled pretzels. Along with a prominent cafe culture, international cuisine is very popular, and Korean restaurants are sandwhiched between foreign food stands in every district. Most eateries are small, many with traditional hole-in the ground toilets, and some without soap. The subways and stations are a bit more tarnished than those in Japan but still madly efficient. Seoul's snippets of chaos work to create an emotional city, vibrant with movement and a tangible humanity. Living in Japan, where sometimes city streets seem almost too clean, I'm learning to appreciate some grime. <br />
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Stephen and I arrived in South Korea after a surprise first-class upgrade on our flight with Korean Air. We met our friend, DK, who stayed with us in Nagoya the week before, at our hostel. The three of us studied in Florence so feel in our element exploring foreign countries together and invariably return to conversations surrounding our shared adventures. Not surprisingly, some unstoppable force brought us to an excellent Italian restaurant later in Busan (once we'd connected with our other Florence friend, Joe). Anyway, our first venture in Seoul was to locate traditional Korean-style barbeque. We found a restaurant nearby filled with people sitting on the floor and cooking copious amounts of red meat on personal grills. Our waiter presented us with various kimichi soups and side dishes, such as potato salad, sweet and spicy sauces, and radish, to accompany our sizzling slices of pork. The bill's astoundingly low total was a pleasant shock after living in Japan for six months, where for the same meal you'd pay more than twice the amount. <br />
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During our time in Seoul we visited some of the main tourist sights, including Changdeokgung palace (where we saw the changing of the guards), an Arts and Culture Museum, Namsangol Hanok Village (with traditional Korean-style houses and an amazing view), and Namdaemun Market. We also relaxed at the top of Seoul Tower, waiting until dark for the beautiful night-view dotted with lights. Along the way we sampled more traditional Korean food, including many spicy kimichi stews (some of these were better than others), noodle dishes, and flat egg pancakes. We were particularly engrossed with the doughy, crepe-like sweets filled with sugary cinnamon goo we found at Namdaemun Market. That was one aspect of Korean culture that surprised us: they love sweets! Ordering "iced tea" might bring you sugar-water. <br />
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Our final evening in Seoul was especially memorable. As we wandered through our hostel's Hongik district, a popular hangout for students of Hongik University, we passed a small open-air restaurant. Two pairs of Koreans were eating abundant spreads of noodles and flat egg pancakes. Observing their platters I said, "That looks good," and the two men closest to us yelled, "Yes, it's delicious! Come eat!" and proceeded to holler to the chef (who doubled as the server) to start cooking. Once we were seated, Korean beer and Takju (a traditional alcoholic drink that looks like watered down milk and is slightly sweet) appeared, accompanied soon after by one of the pancakes. Our new friends were extremely hospitable and loved speaking English. They encouraged us to sample their food, unsure if we could tolerate the spice level, and welcomed us to their ceramic teapot of Takju. The beverage pairs well with spice as it reduces the intensity. <br />
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One extremely amiable, inebriated man was impressed with our eyes and kept forming large circles with his hands and holding them to his face, telling Stephen and I, "You make babies! Angel babies!" He also admired Stephen's handsome face and DK's built figure and repeated these sentiments for many hours. Another man spoke English very well and taught Stephen how to count to ten in Korean. This took only about six minutes to everyone's amazement. When the final bill came it was ridiculously low- less than about $6 a person. When DK inquired about tipping he was told,"In Korea, the chef is happy you enjoy the food. That is tip enough."<br />
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The following afternoon, after wandering around some neighborhood shops and eating breakfast at an cheerful-looking cafe with brightly painted walls and enormous muffins, we took a train to Busan. We had unreserved seats so camped in the connecting cars, peering out the tiny windows as the food carts rolled by without stopping. It was a two and a half hour train ride and Joe greeted us at the station. After some spicy kimichi soup we took an extremely affordable taxi to a beautiful beach suburb lined with bars, restaurants, and love motels. On our way we saw a dog restaurant... where people eat dogs. Twenty of Joe's British friends had rented a condo for a birthday celebration on the water. We spent the evening enjoying Korean beer, barbequeing on the roof, and some, lighting fireworks on the sand! <br />
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The following day we explored the city and later successfully found a decent motel for under the equivalent of $20 a person. Living and working on the yen, South Korea felt like a cheap vacation. I'd definitely recommend a visit to enjoy flavorful food, a rich, cosmopolitan culture, and affectionate and hospitable company! I'm so happy that DK could visit and we could all reunite with Joe and Katelen.<br />
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On a different (less happy) note, we are very interested in the relationship between Korea and Japan. During its infamous thirty-five year occupation, Japan enslaved thousands of Koreans and banned them from speaking their native language. Today, while the younger generations deviate away from discrimination, some older people still remember the occupation clearly and harbor significant resentment. This has propelled long-standing tension between the neighboring countries. Interestingly, many of my Japanese students love Korean food, obsess over K-Pop, and Korean dramas are extremely popular with Japanese women. We talked a lot with Joe, who teaches English in Ulsan, who told us about his student's reactions to the earthquake and tsunami. Some echoed their parent's sentiments that Japan was being punished for its past evils. It seems that different people, naturally, feel differently. <br />
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Anyway... I hope family and friends at home are doing well and we miss you! I'll write another Japan-update before our next trip in August to the land of Phad Thai. <br />
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Thanks for reading!<br />
ClaireClaire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-68166235615215444542011-05-07T18:54:00.000-07:002011-05-08T17:20:40.718-07:00Here Comes the HumidityKonnichiwa!<br />
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For the first time it was almost too warm to sleep comfortably last night. Apparently, Tuesday should reach 80 degrees and the temperature will climb steadily through May until we're all dripping and vainly swirling the warm air around with fans.<br />
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For fragile Seattleites and others coming from places lacking weather extremes, the temperature adjustment in Japan will be a challenge. My body will either regulate or have a heat stroke. I'll never forget the summer two years ago when Seattle was bawling because it hit 90 degrees and radio programs had to coach everyone on how to remain hydrated and conscious. All of the regulars at Robertino's lined the wall, staring at the ceiling, their iced coffee melting, and we suffered together with the single fan. <br />
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To think positively, today Stephen and I will enjoy the sun at a school BBQ. We've been spending a lot of time outdoors with friends and enjoying mild spring afternoons and evenings in parks and riding our bikes down rivers. It's currently perfect tee-shirt weather, and last night we sat at a pond in Tusurma park surrounded by orange lights, sparkling water and bats dipping close to our heads. The moon was a waxing crescent. I love the feeling of riding my bike at night into the wind without growing chilled.<br />
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Our Golden Week was also blessed with warm weather, aside a few rainy moments (they can only be characterized as moments: the rain dumps buckets until it feels as though you've just lost a hose-fight and then stops three minutes later, leaving you feeling unjustly assaulted). We went to Kanazawa for four days with Mindy and Kendall and it was a great whirlwind of activity. We enjoyed the beautiful Kenrokuen park and gardens, saw a Noh play, and toured a "Ninja" castle with an impressive number of trap doors and secret passageways used by samurai to hide from and attack invaders. It even had a four-tatami mat sized suicide room prepared if the lord had to kill himself. We ate great sushi, saw an old Samurai house, and visited many museums, including a confectionary, phonograph, and arts and crafts museum. We also made gold-leaf crafts and met a cool German girl whom I talked books with. Phew! On the final day, after our neighbors had headed back to Nagoya, Stephen and I visited Gyokusen-En Garden and its tiny Tei-Roji tea house. The garden was secluded, peaceful, and preserved a mysterious manner despite its popularity as a tourist attraction. The woman running the tea house told us she cannot leave or go on vacation because she is bound to it by bloodline. "I like America," she told us- "You're so free."<br />
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She then proceeded to ask if we'd heard the news about "lidin." She repeated "liden" a few times quizzically, leaving us a bit confused, and when Osama Bin Laden crossed my mind I quickly neglected the thought. After we'd enjoyed our tea and lumps of green-tea and lavender mochi at the mouth of the garden we left and checked the news. There he was. Reading the mass-influx of celebratory Facebook statuses, some more quenched than others, proceeding his death was definitely interesting. Although the successful mission symbolized a lot for America, I was hesitant to call it a victory, as the cycle seems unbreakable, even for a nation that condemns murder.<br />
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The world continues. In other news, Stephen and I purchased our tickets to Thailand during Oban- August 6th to the 19th! More on our planning in blog posts to come. My Japanese lesson starts Wednesday morning and this Tuesday begins our first full week back to work. I truly enjoy our job, despite the occasional repetitive or boring moment, and love the laid-back schedule. I've been allotting much free time to writing and am seriously considering getting my MFA in Creative Writing (somewhere in California, perhaps San Francisco) when we return! Following the bliss....<br />
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I hope the sun is out wherever you are and thank you for reading! Happy May!<br />
ClaireClaire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-50993496447263556132011-04-25T20:10:00.000-07:002011-04-26T17:58:17.511-07:00Kyoto and KaisekiOhayo, everyone!<br />
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I hope everyone had a wonderful Easter with family and friends! We had a relaxing weekend and have three days of work before Golden Week (the sought-after spring holiday in Japan) and our trip to Kanazawa with Mindy and Kendall. Kanazawa is famous as an ancient Samurai town, untouched during World War Two, with traditional puppet theater, a strong arts culture, and one of Japan's most beautiful gardens. It's a two and a half hour train ride north of Nagoya so we're staying a few nights. It will be an adventure! <br />
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It was a busy weekend. On Saturday evening we attended a school party in Yokkaichi (where Stephen works three days a week and I work on Fridays) at a Spanish tapas bar and hung out with students and coworkers. In true Japanese form, everyone went around the room and introduced themselves and we "campaied" to a great year at ECC. Another night, Mindy and I enjoyed spicy thai food in Tsurumai (at a restaurant owned by a Thai family) and afterwards began ryokan-hunting for our upcoming trip with the boys. On Sunday Stephen and I had a mini Easter celebration with quiche and cheesy toast at one of our favorite neighborhood cafes and relaxed for a couple hours. This cafe serves the ULTIMATE hot chocolate (it reminds me Italy's delectable melted-chocolate approach) and a really nice atmosphere despite the traditional hole-in-the-ground Japanese toilet. To kick off Easter weekend we also enjoyed some midnight Lindt chocolate sent by my parents, who, speaking of, came to Japan a couple weeks ago!<br />
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Giving my parents the Nagoya tour and later exploring Kyoto together was a treat. I think my entire family is now officially Japan-crazy (Alec started it, arriving home from studying in the Tokyo-region with suitcases overflowing with arcade stuffed animals). My parents were very impressed at the kind and well-mannered nature of Japanese society and loved the exciting fusion of ancient and modern culture. I won't be surprised if the Hanneses soon migrate to Japan!<br />
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One of the highlights of their two day Nagoya stay was our Kaiseki dining experience. My very nice Japanese friend, Natsuki, took us to a restaurant owned by her family friends where we enjoyed the very traditional, course-style Japanese dinner ceremony. Most of the (9?) courses consisted of seafood, the main dishes being sashimi, crab (with delicious crab-brain paste on the side), and eel, and were presented in fine form, sometimes with candles. We kept thinking the last course had been served, but no! The dinner continued on with its tiny dishes until we were stuffed, concluding finally with the sweetest green melon on earth. It was an unforgettable dining experience!<br />
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The following weekend, Stephen and I took the Shinkansen after work to meet my parents in Kyoto. We of course enjoyed the ride with chocolate and Chu-hi to celebrate the start of our vacation. My parents booked rooms at the Capsule Ryokan, a nice Japanese-style hotel with fold-out mats and crazy, high-tech showers that made you feel like you were in a tropical rain forest. Our two day excursion was full of checking out shrines and temples in the beautiful Arashiyama district (an hour bus ride into the mountainous countryside and along a river), walking through bamboo forests, enjoying the best sushi yet at a traditional izakaya, and exploring Kyoto's famous market comprising a long line of vendors selling everything from fruit to fish to hand-painted fans. We also ate traditional Kyoto sweets, like green tea wagashi. It was a lot of fun and the weather, pardon the final evening before Stephen and I went back to Nagoya (my parents had already departed for Nara) and essentially experienced a monsoon, was ideal. I'll post photos soon.<br />
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In other news, Stephen and I bought natto (fermented soybean) so I suppose we're becoming more Japanese. The first time we tried natto it was difficult to smell, let alone swallow, but I guess dousing it in ketchup is a good first step and soon we'll be gorging it plain... it's one of the healthiest foods in the world and many Japanese people love it. <br />
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On the language front, I started Japanese class at the Nagoya City Women's Center (on Wednesday mornings, a short bike ride from our apartment) and I'm so excited! The community of women at the center is very strong and welcoming. The teacher brought everyone printed photos of their hanami party and I was lucky enough to partake in an end-of-term celebration complete with sweets, tea, and review. The teacher was really kind to include me so warmly! We went over material I'd studied in my previous class (which I can't attend now due to my new schedule) and learned vocabulary to describe each of the treats we enjoyed (sweet, salty, sour, etc). The other five Korean and Chinese girls in my level are very sweet. I can't wait for the new term to begin in May!<br />
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I'll post another blog and photos after our trip to Kanazawa. Until then, Happy May Day (be sure to ding-dong-ditch your neighbors and leave a bouquet of flowers on the 1st) and have a great week!Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-54948864592640286602011-04-04T16:39:00.001-07:002011-04-04T16:39:18.539-07:00Spring Photos<div style="padding: 0; overflow: hidden; margin: 0; width: 500px;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590052645/in/photostream/" title="Sakura " style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5261/5590052645_9508b5af17_s.jpg" alt="Sakura " style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590052151/in/photostream/" title="Sakura flavored Sake!" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5103/5590052151_1e28706642_s.jpg" alt="Sakura flavored Sake!" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590640706/in/photostream/" title="Me and Mindy" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5187/5590640706_5b9b8b6ec4_s.jpg" alt="Me and Mindy" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590640352/in/photostream/" title="Vendors (they had candied apples!)" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5143/5590640352_180b538dc5_s.jpg" alt="Vendors (they had candied apples!)" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590050675/in/photostream/" title="More Blossoms!" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5027/5590050675_2c249e866f_s.jpg" alt="More Blossoms!" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590639484/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 0 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5590639484_2a4eedc1c9_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><br clear="all"/><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590049909/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5590049909_e11f666678_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590638818/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5590638818_08a9a92b20_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590638340/in/photostream/" title="New Hanami Friends" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5027/5590638340_0631e1c9b3_s.jpg" alt="New Hanami Friends" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590637728/in/photostream/" title="Cookin up some Bratwurst!" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5308/5590637728_4281bc0b2c_s.jpg" alt="Cookin up some Bratwurst!" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590637348/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5135/5590637348_41e17a4ab6_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590047939/in/photostream/" title="Check out those Lanterns" style="display: block; padding: 0 0 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5590047939_1cd87f2e6b_s.jpg" alt="Check out those Lanterns" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><br clear="all"/><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590636618/in/photostream/" title=""Man-ing" the Grill" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5110/5590636618_ce0b964e5c_s.jpg" alt=""Man-ing" the Grill" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590047175/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5229/5590047175_9433099aca_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590635786/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5182/5590635786_4744a45201_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590046351/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/5590046351_15e3df73d5_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590634988/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5148/5590634988_5397c85a06_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590634640/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 0 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5065/5590634640_84659c6197_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><br clear="all"/><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590634272/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5104/5590634272_9c657cf7fd_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590044741/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5028/5590044741_7c8ab597dc_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590633404/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5268/5590633404_6074e6d237_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590632944/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5064/5590632944_4ca730de5a_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590632524/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5105/5590632524_8047662152_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5590043091/in/photostream/" title="" style="display: block; padding: 0 0 10px 0; width: 75px; height: 75px; float: left;"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5590043091_157ffbae00_s.jpg" alt="" style="border:none; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 75px; height: 75px;"/></a><br clear="all"/></div><div style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 5px"><p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/">channes22's photostream</a> on Flickr.</p></div>Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-16452790030255320942011-04-04T04:53:00.000-07:002012-07-19T18:22:20.560-07:00Earthquakes, Cherry Blossoms and Spring in JapanKonbanwa-<br />
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Despite what the media may suggest we're still alive, not radioactive, and Nagoya is structurally unchanged after the 9.0 earthquake devastated Japan's northern coast and caused a major tsunami. Needless to say it was a surreal and humbling experience being in Japan during the biggest earthquake of its recorded history (I only felt a little dizzy during the event and Stephen, on a bike at the time, felt nothing) and watching the tragedy unfold across every Japanese TV station and media outlet, as well as those of the international world. Fortunately our Japanese friends, their families, and our fellow English teacher friends are safe. Unfortunately thousands lost their lives and the aftermath is terrible. We hope that the Fukushima situation is resolved as quickly as possible but, stationed hundreds of miles away from the designated "danger zone," we are not too worried about our own safety. Like most Japanese, our earthquake emergency bag is packed but we're presently calm. There were a few small aftershock earthquakes here in the week following March 11th but we haven't felt any since.<br />
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Life continues on in Nagoya. The cherry blossoms are in full bloom, smearing pink and white along sidewalks and attracting flocks of celebratory Japanese armed with beer to every park in the city. With the sakura (cherry blossom) season comes hanami. These are drinking parties that occur during the blossom's brief and bold appearances. This weekend we walked to Tsurumai park with Mindy and Kendall, our new and awesome ECC neighbor couple (they live in our building) with camping chairs, our grill, beer, wine, and broutwurst. The area was packed with happy Japanese dancing, cheersing, and drinking- all done on huge blue tarps spread across the dirt. We joined right in and made friends fast. One even bought 3,000 yen worth of beer for our expanded party!<br />
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Since my last post we've had many adventures and been enjoying life in Japan despite the recent stressful events. Two weekends ago Stephen took me to an onsen in Gifu, a 25 minute train ride westward by train, for a late White Day celebration (I'd been sick with the flu and was finally feeling fully recovered). The spa cost only 1,000 yen a person, roughly ten dollars, and was well worth the short venture. It had beautiful indoor and outdoor hot springs (a variety including mineral and jet-equipped) surrounded by plants and overlooking a small beach. The men and women have segregated spas since nudity is a prerequisite to entering the baths (and that tiny speck of a towel is meant for your hair!) so Stephen and I met back in the lounge after two hours. The nudity caused me hesitation for about two minutes and then I got over it. When EVERYONE is naked you almost forget that you're the pasty white foreigner gleaming in the sun. The spa wasn't what I'd expected, rather it was quiet with very few people and a total of six different baths which created a sense of privacy. I can definitely understand why hot springs are said to hold therapeutic power. After about an hour my body was fully relaxed and mind naturally followed. I nearly fell asleep back in the lounge and felt a high level of circulation in my knees (this caused them to feel a bit funny). Overall it was a rewarding experience. I'm glad we don't have tattoos- they aren't usually allowed in Japanese hot springs. <br />
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As always, we've been eating a lot of delicious food and trying out restaurants and izakaya (Japanese-style bars where you eat various side dishes). We've enjoyed plenty of yakisoba (fried egg and soba dish), Okonomiyaki (those amazing cabbage and egg pancakes), ramen, and yakitori (fried chicken popular at lunchtime) at different spots in Nagoya. We also discovered omurice, basically an omelet stuffed with rice and topped with tomato or beef sauce, which seems as popular as "Makudonorudu" (yes, McDonalds) for a quick lunch in Japan. My Japanese friend, Natsuki, recently introduced me to a good Korean restaurant in Kanayama (the station near ECC headquarters) where we had spicy lunch sets of kimchi tofu soup, mixed rice, onion soup, salad, and unlimited tea and coffee (they even had a bottle of wine- we stuck to the tea) for 960 yen. <br />
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Stephen and I have discovered a new late dinner solution. On work nights when we're too tired to cook we'll buy marked-down sushi sets from the nearby grocery store. These include an array of eel, red tuna, salmon, squid, mackerel, and fish eggs (roe). Before I came to Japan I was neutral about sushi- now I'm obsessed. Bring on the sashimi! Our friend who recently returned to Australia also gave us her rice cooker and Stephen uses it nearly every day (we actually bought brown rice yesterday so I'll be using it more often, too). We haven't attempted to make sushi after the documentary we watched- did you know they use vinegar and sugar in sushi rice?- leave it to the pros. Along with the amazing food we've also delved into Japan's good but overtaxed beer (I prefer Yebisu and Kirin) culture and tried sakura-flavored sake. It literally smells like flowers. With respect to the coffee realm, Natsuki introduced me to Mister Donut's unlimited coffee refills for 260 yen. This is unheard of in Japan where you typically pay 300-400 yen for a single, tiny cup. Mister Donuts also has green tea donuts among their vast selection (since can now read Katakana we can sound out the flavors, such as "Kuranberi"). The line is perpetually moving yet never-ending. <br />
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Japan is full of tasty things. One of the most exciting things you can do here is enter a Kombini, or convenience store. For a curious foreigner they are packed with fun and excitement. The nikuman (pork stuffed dumplings) are served hot and cost about 120 yen a piece depending on where you go; Lawson's, Family Mart, or Circle K. The refrigerated section has single-serving sticks of seasoned squid and fish (Japan's more effective and less processed version of a protein bar) and the bakery section provides the more unhealthy curry, tuna, egg, and soba-filled bread pouches ideal for a hungry train ride home. Then there's the onigiri section with sea-weed wrapped rice balls stuffed with tuna, pork, and other fillings, and of course the pre-made dinner sets of fish, chicken, noodles and rice (we hardly get these but they're surprisingly fresh compared to the convenient store items in the states). Entering a kombini will make you feel like a little kid entering Disney World. They're so exciting! <br />
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To finally, a bit regretfully, shift the topic away from food, I love spring. The days are getting warmer and every morning our apartment is doused with sunlight. We recently re-decorated our living room with new pillows, a couch cover and throw blanket and I've been framing more photos against beautiful craft paper. Stephen keeps the place bright with flowers and his beloved and tenderly cared for plants. To enjoy and soak up the vitamin D we've also been riding our bikes nearly every day. My parents are visiting in one week and I think the weather will be perfect for them. I'm so excited for our trip to Kyoto and Nara and to show them around Nagoya. It will be so great to see them!!<br />
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Wish us luck as our training period is coming to a close and we begin our new schedules and school year as regular ECC teachers- no more subbing! I'm teaching three regular adult conversation classes which I'm excited about. It will be amazing having a set schedule and some consistency. Stephen has just handed me a hot bowl of homemade donburi, which in this case is brown rice topped with beef and vegetables. The chopsticks are calling!<br />
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Thanks for reading and happy cherry blossom season!Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-81961219285568907672011-02-27T22:08:00.000-08:002011-02-28T01:48:15.214-08:00From a Lovely Tatami MatCiao, Konnichiwa, and Hello:<br />
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I looked out the window this morning and, besides the Japanese signs and scraggly trees lining the street (not to mention a boxy car or two), thought it could have been Seattle. It's POURING rain and the black umbrellas are out and about. I'll admit, since we don't get much rain at this season I'm kind of enjoying it. From indoors.<br />
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This blog is about our experiences in Japan but also a few unrelated thoughts of my own (though everything's related, I dare say). I was reading the letters of women writing to their 20-something selves and found their advice truly inspiring. <br />
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In case you have no idea what I'm referring to, you can read the letters here: <br />
http://cassieboorn.com/20-something-self-letters/<br />
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There is a shared theme running through these letters I felt spoke loudly: Your 20s are yours and should be savored. They should be beautiful and intrepid, full of exploration and sampling, a surrender to an infinitely valuable and fleeting freedom. These years are gems. Unfortunately, many ambitious 20-somethings grow distracted by the self-inflicted pressure to map our their futures. As we struggle to define ourselves and what's next we forget to "enjoy the ride." Unwillingly yet self-prophesied, I've fit this prototype. <br />
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Yet at the three month and one week mark in Japan, a steady calm has washed over the cranes floating in the window, the simple tatami mats, the plants supple and plump from watering. Urgencies have begun to quiet, worries slip gracefully out the cracked windows. Our glass doors, etched with flowers, have begun to speak the language of the pink clouds drifting across the ceiling of Robertino's cafe, my Mom's homemade pesto pasta, Palmer Lake in all seasons. Like the letters to the twenty-something selves, my surroundings are beginning to offer comforting handfuls of calm and tranquility.<br />
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There is no rush, no deadline to meet. I was Skyping with my Mom yesterday, and she told me something valuable (as usual): that ultimately, when you stop worrying about the future and allow yourself to experience life, the next steps will reveal themselves organically. What a relief! This philosophy reflects Stephen's as well as those of the letters: fill life with as much goodness and pleasure as possible (have I mentioned how fortunate I am to be with the most contagiously happy person I know for this adventure?).<br />
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Japan is helping me, and I am so grateful. This experience is teaching me, day by day, to release myself from worry, from guardedness, from hesitation. Life is simple. You get what you give, you are what you think, and you'll become what you emit. A fresh pot of tea, a bright bouquet, or a good book will saturate the daily palette with color if only you'll allow it to. It's your choice. The present is oozing with sweet offerings... accept them.<br />
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I also feel infinitely fortunate to live in an age when remaining connected to loved ones all over the world is easy. To my wonderful family: I think about you every day. To my twenty-something friends, let's not let these years escape us under-appreciated.Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-61235919657642909312011-02-08T18:34:00.000-08:002011-02-08T19:06:02.212-08:00February FindingsHi Everyone!<br />
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It's a morning of sunshine and hot coffee. The construction occurring next to our apartment is as loud as ever (yet Stephen can still sleep right through it) and the plants are happy. The market below now has strawberries in season. The local elections ended over the weekend so the random and mysterious loud-speaker announcements (of which we only understood "please" and "thank you" repeated ten times in the highest level of formality) have finally ceased.<br />
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Today is a quiet week at work for EM sub teachers. It's "adjustment" week so there are no kids classes and a fresh batch of teachers are starting their training at Kanayama headquarters. We're officially no longer the newest people at ECC (that feels good)! <br />
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The weeks here are flying past already, cushioned between busy weekends full of interesting discoveries. We visited the English library stocked with books and DVDs at the International Center (where we also watched some of the events unfolding in Egypt on a big flat screen in English) and have recently checked out two museums, one with ancient and modern Japanese art and the other a Monet/French Impressionism exhibition. A friend introduced us to the best Indian food in Nagoya and we've discovered a Japanese-lunch joint with amazing sushi for after our language lessons on Thursdays. I've also found a craft store that tempts me (and my wallet) back with its beautiful origami paper and fabrics. My crane-mobile is nearing completion! This weekend we enjoyed a hot-pot with various veggies and chicken, good Japanese beer, and UFC fights on pay-per-view at our friend's apartment. <br />
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We recently had the ultimate ramen experience. A friend took us to a popular pork-ramen shop in Fushimi. Upon entering the dimly-lit bar style restaurant, you select your bowl size, noodle and meat quantity on a machine and receive a ticket. You are then seated in a private booth, complete with wings that fold out (to isolate the ramen-eater into the intense palatable experience) and complete a questionnaire regarding your desired spice level and fat-content. You must submit to deep sensory concentration as you slurp your ramen, hence the individual booths. You can always press a button to summon a waiter and request extra noodles or pork. As soon as you stand up a loud, conspicuous bell sounds to alert the staff that a seat has opened. Since, we've eaten a lot of ramen but nothing has compared to those personalized bowls! <br />
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Hmmm, what else? We watched a fascinating sake documentary and now want to visit a brewery- the cyclical process of sake production truly reflects Japan's history and traditional economic mindset (which Stephen been reading and telling me about in his history book). Everything has always been with the season, respecting and reaping nature's benefits year-round to create an autonomous (and isolated) economy. Japan's rich geography and supportive climate, complete with a promised monsoon season, has made this possible. Sake rice is tended with upmost care and awareness. In the spring the rice is planted, the summer tended, and the fall harvested for winter production of sake. I think that the process exhibits a beautiful mindset and shows the importance of living and appreciating the present moment (or season)!<br />
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Japanese classes are progressing slowly but surely. This past week we skipped because I had a bad cold and lost my voice (what a week it was for teaching!), but we study at a new cafe every weekend. Learning and writing the Hiragana alphabet is an enjoyable, tricky endeavor... and it's so pretty!<br />
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We have Friday off for a national holiday. On Thursday night we're going to karaoke (don't worry Mom, only two hours this time) and on Friday taking a free tour of a brewery about 20 minutes from Nagoya with friends. On Saturday we're attending a chocolate exchange party (yummmm) and Monday is Valentine's Day, so Stephen and I will enjoy the day together. In Japan, only women give their lovers presents, usually chocolate, on Valentine's Day. Come March 14th, "White Day," the men give women presents. I have some lovely plans up my sleeve! :)<br />
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In other spectacular news, my parents are visiting come April, and Sarah and DK are visiting come May! There is so much to look forward to. We're also buying tickets for a trip to Thailand in August once we receive our schedules for next year! I hope everyone is doing wonderfully at home and keeping warm. Happy February, the shortest month of the year- I hope it's filled with love and loved ones!<br />
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:) ClaireClaire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-74971819062589515892010-12-29T18:05:00.000-08:002011-02-16T16:02:44.111-08:00Osaka: Gluttony and Good TimesOhayo!<br />
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The past three days have been spent lavishing in bowls of caramelized yams, the gooey insides of octopus dumplings, sizzling stacks of fried cabbage, egg and flour doused in sweet sauce (they call it...Okonamyaki, and it's God-sent) and drinking good beer. We visited Osaka, Japan's renowned food capital whose delicious waftings will make you salivate immediately upon stepping off the train. <br />
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Literally, we hopped off the train and our noses were struck instantly. "What is that SMELL?!" We spent the majority of our trip eating (good and cheap). The streets of Osaka are lined with vendors- these conspicuous food stops are usually surrounded by herds of spectators waiting patiently to devour their Takoyaki at the standing table two feet away. After our three hour venture from Nagoya (requiring multiple transfers) we were ready for culinary dominance. We checked into our hostel and hopped to the famous Dotonbori district where we promptly bought beer and strolled the streets trying anything that looked good. Over the course of the evening I think we skipped through five or six different bars, restaurants, and vendors. <br />
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Daigakuimo, or caramelized sweet potatoes, are rock-solid until your teeth crack the shell to experience the potato and caramelized-insanity. Osaka's Takoyaki surpasses anything I've tasted in Nagoya, and the Ikonomiyaki prepared on a steaming frier before you late at night is exclusively Osaka's. The layers of cabbage, flour, beef and egg are blended by the swift hand of a Japanese chef and topped with nari (seaweed) and red ginger. The fish flakes added in the process are so amazing, they dance. Note: they aren't actually alive (we thought they were the first time we tried Tacoyaki in Nagoya). No, really, they aren't. Stop videotaping the fish flakes.<br />
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Between eating, we also saw a lot of cool places. We visited Osaka's Aquarium, Kaiyukan (via boat that transported us across the river) and saw ridiculous squirrel-monkeys and massive whale-sharks. The aquarium comprises five stories that you explore through a spiraled route. The aquarium features sea-life from 15 regions, including Japan's Forest, the Tasman Sea, the Gulf of Panama, Ecuador's Rain Forest, and the Aleutian Islands. It's one of the biggest in the world and even has a "touching" room where you can pet small sharks. They were slimy and one flapped his fins angrily at me. We concluded that these creatures have the crappiest lives of all the museum-bound sea folk, being fondled by humans all day (mostly unruly children), but Stephen reasoned that the sad touch-me prostitutes are rotated. <br />
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We also visited Osaka Castle, the Hokoku Shrine, the Umeda sky-building that offers amazing panoramas, and moseyed through bustling street markets and famous neighborhood districts. Our trip was all the more amazing because we were able to meet up with a friend from our Toronto trip along with his Japanese girlfriend and friends. Dining with our boisterous band of Japanese/British/Canadians/Americans was a lot of fun. Good people always know other good people. <br />
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Ps: In Japanese, the Italian translation of "Cheers!" (cin cin) refers, in Japanese, to the male genitalia. Our friends gladly taught us many useful Japanese phrases, such as "Two more beers, please," among others. On our second night we all went for Nomihodai at 1200 yen a piece. Nomihodai means "all you can drink," and in this case we had two hours. We also shared nabe (a hot pot), gyoza (Japanese dumplings), karaage (fried chicken bits), and classic fried potatoes. Oishi!<br />
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Our Osaka trip a success, now we have five more days of laziness before winter vacation ends and work begins. The first week and a half of teaching went great for Stephen and I both. In the few days before break, our kids lessons were solely Christmas-centered, and we crafted countless hand and feet reindeer, pop-up Christmas cards, felt stockings, and sang Christmas songs until I lost my voice (luckily this pinnacled in the last two hours of my base-shift, during which I never taught).<br />
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New Years plans are yet to be decided, but a shrine-visit on the 1st is a definite must. I hope that everyone had a wonderful Christmas and plans to bring in 2011 with friends and family. Happy Holidays, loves! We're living fat and happy. Thanks for reading.<br />
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ClaireClaire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-8558196593328941352010-12-29T16:26:00.001-08:002010-12-29T16:26:02.132-08:00Check out Photos from our Gluttonously Spectacular Food-Capital of
Japan Adventure<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5304472327/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5247/5304472327_d2bf122dd9_m.jpg" alt="" style="border: solid 2px #000000;" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: 0.9em; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/channes/5304472327/">IMG_0438</a> <br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/channes/">channes22</a></span><br clear="all" /><p></p>Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-9684942073275246572010-12-12T06:27:00.000-08:002010-12-12T15:51:57.908-08:00Konbanwa!Finally, a blog update!<br />
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Today our ultra high-speed Internet was installed. It's a hundred megabytes/sec, or fifteen times faster than my family's Internet at home. Wowza. The Skype connection is pristine. Unfortunately the sad truth about Netflix is that it DOESN'T WORK here. Noooo! <br />
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But Internet is the least interesting part of life in Japan. The past three weeks have been a whirlwind of stress and craziness, but on Friday we signed our contracts! It felt like a true accomplishment after the extensive (physically and mentally exhausting) two week training period. <br />
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Kids training was sweaty, loud and shameless. We learned that prostituting white-board stars, yell-singing, and squealing excited congratulations (no "Tarzan English" allowed) constitutes only a fraction of the effort. The kids must be engaged at every moment, so while you’re organizing flash cards, trying to remember the rules to the next game (or completely blanking out), they have to be marching, touching their noses, or doing whatever distracting transitional activity you can think of. ECC equals fun. We're teaching our first real kid's lessons tomorrow, which are fifty minutes long (Mini Kids Classes, which are attended by 1.5-3 year olds and a parent, are basically 30 minutes of singing). I feel prepared and actually excited- working with kids (not twenty-something man children) will be fun! The intense training truly prepared us, so the stress and hard work was worth it.<br />
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Adult lessons, or free time lessons, are another story. They are fifty minutes and usually comprise one to three students. Basically the teacher leads a discussion in English and works with text books. I'm excited to meet and converse with Japanese people my age- we've heard that you make a lot of friends through these lessons.<br />
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Now that training is complete, our work schedules allot us much free time (Monday through Fridays we work from about 3:30-9:30 pm). Thus with the start of winter break comes the start of Japanese lessons! Being "Gaijin" (we get a lot of stares and free stuff) who speak none of the language complicates interacting with actual Japanese people, which is what we came to do. We've been cooped up in ECC's training headquarters with British, Australians, Canadians and other Americans, and we're ready to make some Japanese friends! Young people are always friendly here. The other night we were at Red Spice, the bar next door, and tried to converse with a young guy we met (faces stuffed pathetically into our phrase-book). He kept telling me that my Japanese was "very good!" Note: My Japanese absolutely sucks. This is an example of the culture's flattering and humble tendencies. <br />
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The Japanese are people I want to get to know. After observing a private lesson last week with the sweetest middle aged woman in the world (I just sat there, smiled, and did absolutely nothing), she gave me a beautiful wooden heart charm and thanked me profusely. The owner of the market below us gave us a pot of white flowers. Japanese culture loves gift-giving (so we're not that special), especially during this time of year. New Years in Japan is a big deal. It's very family-focused, unlike Christmas (which is celebrated commercially as a couple's holiday without religious implications) and families visit temples to ring bells, a tradition which symbolizes the releasing of sins. <br />
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I just realized that I need to back-track a holiday. Our "Thanksgiving" was celebrated four days late at the Italian restaurant, “Il Cuorare,” directly below us. Directly below us means its ceiling is our floor. We were a bit cautious of Japanese Italian (rumored to comprise a funky blend of both) but were pleasantly surprised. The owner and his wife spoke no English or Italian (we were hoping for a menu in one or the other) so presented us with their cookbook. We pointed and received tasty Spaghetti alla Bolognese and a type of Pasta Primavera. An interesting side of Mozzarella rice balls dipped in Marinara appeared after our appetizer of Bruschetta. Overall, the meal was impressive and the couple was very nice and laughed at our phrase-book. People love checkin' out our phrase-book! We plan to return for Christmas, figuring we've found a good Italian restaurant run by our nice neighbors and we should stick to it.<br />
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On a different note, our apartment is coming together nicely. The every-day essentials, some whose purchases were delayed for a while, have slowly appeared on our shelves. Yesterday was a land-mark because I found My Mug. I've been looking for My Mug for weeks. Everything in Japan is small, so finding it took a while. Now every morning I can enjoy a tall cup of coffee that doesn't need refilling every three minutes. Last weekend we bought a few more shelves, some plants (we still need the Big Tall Green Plant) and a godly electric tea kettle. I love our apartment, the balcony, and our deep bath tub (that is basically a hot tub because it reheats itself!!). The fruit and veggie market, operational seven days a week, is a step out the door and cheaper than the supermarkets. I think we we've been very fortunate. <br />
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Now that we have real Internet access and don't have to type on miniscule iPhone keyboards, I will be blogging and keeping in better touch with America. I love hearing from family and friends and compulsively check my e-mail. I know Stephen does, too. Speaking of Stephen, today is our two year anniversary! He made us chicken curry and friend rice for dinner, and we've spent the day reading and lounging around. After the crazy past couple weeks we're happy to just relax. This weekend has been fairly low-key with a late night ice-cream jaunt, market-going with our friend, a bar stop for cheap Guinness (only 620 yen), and grocery shopping (which is undeniably still extremely exciting). We actually bought a bottle of Merlot (the "safest" option) with our friend for 1000 yen (roughly ten dollars). It was....... "awarded the Japan medal." Sake is the way to go!<br />
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Love you all and thanks for reading!<br />
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ClaireClaire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-28320091088824881342010-11-28T18:24:00.000-08:002012-07-19T18:28:39.767-07:00We Have ArrivedOhayo! <br />
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The past few days have been extremely eventful and eye-opening! I’d rather not elaborate on our traumatic venture from the Tokyo to Nagoya train station after we landed, but I will say that the overnight sleeper bus was sold out, and you should never attempt to transport five huge (one 73 lbs) luggage bags onto a bullet train and expect not to experience humiliation in the crowded midst of stoic Japanese as you try, sweating and apologizing in a language foreign to those around you, to haul your bags down the narrow aisle and completely disrupt the flow of traffic. When we finally arrived in Nagoya (this is after 24 hours of straight travel without sleep) with our obese American bags we had to find a place to stay the night (we were planning on the sleeper bus to save money on a hostel—unfortunately these tickets cannot be purchased online) while speaking no Japanese. Mistake number one. I have never been so ready and excited to learn a language. Once we finally found accommodation, we fell into a stunned sleep and woke up five hours later.<br />
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The next day our positive attitudes were fully renewed. Our helpful Canadian landlord, Bruce, picked us up in his van and introduced us to our surprisingly spacious apartment that is well-equipped with kitchen aids, a comfortable bed, a TV/DVD player and beautiful Japanese sliding glass doors. We have a large balcony (where our washing machine is located), a deep bathtub with circulation to maintain a nice temperature, and a lot of storage space. We are coincidentally located directly above an Italian restaurant (harr harr) and next door is a small English pub as well as a fresh fruit and vegetable stand. We are located around the corner from a few coffee shops, two large supermarkets, and the subway line. <br />
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On Saturday Bruce arranged for us to meet up with Anne, another ECC teacher from Iowa, whom he also helped move in. Anne has been to Japan five times, speaks Japanese and has a Japanese boyfriend. She took us to her favorite curry restaurant for our first ever meal in Japan and taught us a few useful phrases. I’m sure we’ll all become good friends and it’s very helpful to know someone who speaks Japanese (don’t worry, we start our lessons soon). This morning we’re all meeting up for sushi and she’s showing us the ward where we’ll officially register in the neighborhood (this will enable us to get cellphones and internet—I’m currently using the internet I bought from a Wi-Fi spot at our place for a day). <br />
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We probably spent three hours total doing our grocery shopping yesterday. It was an experience (trying to determine what everything was) and our fridge and cupboards are stocked with Japanese food and fresh fruits and veggies. We made miso soup for dinner last night and had chocolate pockys for dessert. I am already loving this Japanese diet (especially the rice and seaweed).<br />
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Right now it’s pouring rain—a change from the warm tee-shirt weather we’ve had thus far. I woke up at 4:30 this morning and couldn’t fall back asleep so was making coffee in the kitchen by 5:00. It’s now 7:30 and I’ve managed to write this blog, in my journal, and send some e-mails. We love hearing from everyone back home and will post photos and hopefully have regular Internet access soon! Thanks for reading ☺<br />
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ClaireClaire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-4897225278155712992010-09-22T12:37:00.000-07:002010-09-22T12:40:47.544-07:00AwakeThe air is so crisp today.<br />
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This morning I made the brief walk from my house to Robertino's cafe in Ballard- a venture I've made regularly from the time I was fifteen (and secretly in love with the Italian boys who worked the espresso machine), through my sophomore year of college when I was the one serving Ballardites their lattes and gelato on rainy days. Now the cafe is my home away from home; a sweet touchstone that I visit occasionally to practice my Italian with Alfonso (Roberto's elderly father who opened the cafe over twenty years ago) or catch up with long-time friends and customers.<br />
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The walk down 80th avenue has not changed much over the past fifteen years- the road still rolls over the same hills and past the same houses. Yet now the walk stirs a sense of nostalgia for the lost familiar, the gap between what has changed within me and the unchanged world. A simple road, the same destination for a cup of coffee (now lacking the milk and white chocolate) and a time's bittersweet coming of age. Things aren't so simple anymore.<br />
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This summer has been a whirlwind of transitions for myself and those I love. My friends all seem to be affected, as of late, by paramount life-changes; some extremely painful, some exhilarating, all frightening. The truth of, "things really change a lot in your twenties," is now gloweringly obvious with a new, personal twinge. I'm seeing people I care about face massive life-decisions, moves out of state, heartbreak, and even physical pain (Stephen's kidneys are mercilessly neglecting their duties lately). Turbulent events and unexpected repercussions of minor and major decisions are falling from the sky like sharp chop-sticks, jabbing people's sensitive areas, tossing around hearts and limbs. With the future stretched out before us, all we can do is close our eyes, open our arms, and embrace the unknown with blind positivity as we walk forward and possibly trip (over life, or perhaps our own stupidity) and fall on our asses. <br />
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Stephen and I are leaving for Japan from San Francisco (where we're first spending some time with his brother) on November 19th. My last day working at LA Fitness is November 5th, and the following weeks are full of trips to Spokane, early-Thanksgiving celebrations and undoubtedly tear-ridden goodbye sessions with family and friends. My life is about to undergo enormous reconstruction and I am stunned with excitement and by my total, presently un-curable naïveté. I've leaving behind everything and everyone I know for a new world. Claire in Japan... and all over Asia, with Stephen and a load to learn.<br />
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So far I've had a brief mouth-full of the Japanese language, sampled from the "ultimate" phrase-book I ordered (complete with an audio-cd), and finished an interesting book on contemporary Japanese culture. I've read all of ECC's informative documents on Japan, our employment, and am trying to watch every Bourdain episode based anywhere on the largest continent. I am in no way whatsoever prepared. All I am is blindly open and completely mind-boggled with excitement. People keep asking if I'm scared. To my own surprise, I'm not. I'm just positive.<br />
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As the summer says its swift goodbye (after a brief and somewhat non-climactic appearance,) I'll give a loving squeeze to all my familiar touchstones. The way my house looks, with its ivory paint and wooden door, in a frame of fallen leaves and rustling braches, Seattle's busy marketplaces and streets, and of course the puffy clouds drifting across Robertino's ceiling in white and pink hues. Slowly saying goodbye to friends has already proven difficult- my brief, two-day tease of a Spokane visit was bittersweet. I'm already restless to go back for an extended trip in November, pretend I'm a carefree college student, and surround myself with the friends who always infuse me with so much light and joy. <br />
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The air is definitely crisp this morning- it enlivens every pore. I've never felt so awake, so aware of what's passed and what's to to come, so sensitive to every movement. I'm ambitious as hell and in my suspenseful, prickling twenties... ready to close my eyes and make the next jump.Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-5262436447967408712010-08-17T09:41:00.000-07:002010-08-17T10:13:59.752-07:00It's already mid-Augustand life seems to blend effortlessly with work and sun. The past two weeks have been surprisingly relaxing and liberating as I've managed to "let go" some of the energy sappers that were clouding my mind and depleting my body. Facing outward and embracing the people and things I love has been truly energizing and allowed my summer to adopt a new spectrum of color. <br />
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This month has been full of inspiring friends. I can't even count the number of rejuvenating conversations I've had with people about the staples of the post-graduation present: mainly career dreams, independent living, future qualms and love. Many of these exchanges have occurred over tall glasses of red wine, on sunny evening walks, or in newly-discovered restaurants. My friends continue to surprise and inspire me with their ambitions and stirring philosophies. <br />
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Coupled with looking outward, I've also started journaling again and wonder how I've lived without it (or so sparingly with it) over the past year. By the time I was 14 I'd filled over twenty journals- throughout college I filled maybe three. Taking personal time to write has always been an indispensable part of who I am and awakened my deepest understandings of life. Re-embracing my love for introspective writing has helped release some of those negative emotions previously left to fester unexamined. It seems to be essential to my sanity.<br />
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This summer has been about both letting go and re-claiming the necessities. Surrounding myself with the people and things I love has allowed me to realize what it is I truly value in both friends and my own identity. I haven't seen Stephen for about a month and two weeks (I finally will this weekend), and this distance has truly helped me recognize how much joy and inspiration he brings to my life. Cultivating love inward and outward makes everything understandable.Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1302445354234233946.post-15074231286750876202010-08-01T11:18:00.000-07:002010-08-01T13:29:32.251-07:00August 1st<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';">"Stop focusing on tiny things that don't matter."</span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';">This is the best piece of advice I've received lately. I've always been a person brimming with dreams, motivation, creative passion and emotion. Yet while I've been good at "living big," lately I've been all too good at living small.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';">The past month I've found myself constantly distracted by the miniscule details of the day-to-day, frustrated by tiny endeavors and personal failings, stagnated in a seemingly endless routine that blinds me from what's important and inspiring. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:'lucida grande';">While I want so badly to live solely in life's greater picture, to develop the wisdom and ability to focus on its beauty and possibilities, on meaningful relationships, and those philosophies that make everything seem clear and significant- I can't. At least not lately. I'm living at home this summer, working at LA Fitness (I'm there from 11 am to 8 pm most days), and frequently feel restless and irritated. I haven't been writing or creating anything. While I've been making money and working out like crazy, these things don't truly lift or inspire my creative spirit. My mom deserves none of my moodiness and handles it with impressive grace and patience- I want to change my bad attitude.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';">Stephen and I leave for Japan likely within the next two months. By November I should be living in Osaka or Tokyo, absorbing a new perspective, feasting on delicious sushi and sake, traveling throughout Asia, and living in a tiny (but endearing) Japanese apartment. I want to learn Japanese, make friends from all over, try and soak up everything I can. I also want to write and get back into photography. The world is stretched before me yet I can hardly see it. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';">I hate feeling trapped within myself, suffocated by my own negative thoughts, preoccupied by things that don't matter. I think the seemingly mundane quality of this "limbo" period is driving me deeper into my obsession with perfection. I've always expected a lot from myself. Who says I need to be productive, loving, creatively active, skinny, interesting, globally aware? Me. I need to allow myself the privilege of just "being" and this fruitfulness and joy will naturally manifest in my summer life. I am these things to a degree, yet self-induced pressure takes a counter-productive effect. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';">It's time to indulge in the things that free my spirit: reading, writing, crafting, and good conversation. T</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:'lucida grande';">hese activities refresh my vision, give me perspective</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:'lucida grande';">. I stayed up till 1 am last night reading <i>I'm Not Scared </i>and it was so relaxing to get lost in the pages. Upon finishing I felt more creative energy than I have in a long time. Just taking the time to write this morning has made me feel more like myself than I have in a while. It's a new month and it's time to start seeing again.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'lucida grande';"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div>Claire Elizabethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14797806947236600642noreply@blogger.com